1995 Domaine du Caillou Chateauneuf-du-Pape “Vieilles Vignes,” Rhone Valley ($30)

A gorgeous wine from Chateauneuf-du-Pape’s landscape of gnarled vines, ostrich egg-sized stones and wind-swept skies. Unfiltered and made from grapes from old vines, primarily Grenache with a small proportion of Syrah and Mourvedre, it has Chateauneuf’s intricately woven flavors of smoke, exotic spices and the wild herbs of the garrigue, but this deep red wine has the weight and texture of a Burgundy.

Drink it with Provencal-style lamb or a beautiful roast or braised duck.