1994 Frankland Estate ‘Isolation Ridge,’ Western Australia ($18)

Some extraordinary wines are coming out of Australia, and this gorgeous Shiraz (the Australian name for Syrah) is one of them. It’s finely balanced, with a lively acidity cloaked in soft, ripe--but never jam-like--fruit and has an elegance that’s rare at this price level. Although it’s young, it is drinking beautifully now. I found myself going back for a sip, and then another, to see if it held up to my initial impression. It did.