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An Autumnal Risotto

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

Soups made with root vegetables, stews simmered until the meat is fork tender, smothered pork chops and rich pies made with apples are some of the dishes I love to serve when entertaining in the fall.

When I recently filled my shopping cart with ingredients inspired by the season--dark green acorn squash tinged with orange, a package of dried wild mushrooms and a bunch of fresh rosemary--plus some Italian Arborio rice, risotto was the result.

This delicious risotto would make a fine opening to a fall dinner for six or a main course for three to four. If served as a first course, the risotto could be followed by roast chicken or pork with seasonal vegetables and a dessert of sorbet and biscotti. As an entree, it would make a complete menu with a salad of spinach and radicchio in a vinaigrette dressing; warm, Italian bread; and the same dessert.

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Rosbottom is the author of “American Favorites” (Chapters Publishing, 1996).

FALL RISOTTO WITH ACORN SQUASH, WILD MUSHROOMS AND ROSEMARY

3/4 ounce dried wild mushrooms

Water

3 to 4 cups chicken broth

2 (1-pound) acorn squash

3 tablespoons butter

1/4 cup finely chopped onions

1 1/2 cups Arborio rice

2 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried

2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Rosemary sprigs

Arborio rice, an Italian short-grain rice variety, is available in many supermarkets and specialty food stores.

Rinse mushrooms and place in small mixing bowl. Add 2 cups boiling water and let sit 20 minutes to soften mushrooms. Drain through strainer, reserving soaking liquid. Strain liquid into 4-cup measuring cup to remove grit. Add enough chicken broth to make 4 cups and set aside.

Bring 4 to 5 quarts water to boil in saucepan over medium heat. Halve squash and scoop out seeds. Add squash halves to water and cook until just tender, not mushy, about 10 minutes. Drain and remove skin, then cut squash into 1/2-inch dice. Set aside.

Bring 4 cups combined mushroom liquid and chicken broth to simmer in heavy saucepan over medium heat. Reduce heat and keep at simmer.

Melt butter in large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add onion when hot and saute, stirring, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add rice and stir to coat well. Add 1/2 cup simmering stock and cook, stirring constantly, until all liquid has been absorbed.

Continue adding broth 1/2 cup at a time, cooking and stirring, making certain each addition is absorbed before adding next. When done, risotto should be creamy but not runny, and rice should be tender, not mushy. Total cooking time should be 20 to 30 minutes. You may not need to use all of broth mixture.

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When rice is cooked, stir in rosemary, parsley, 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese and mushrooms. Gently stir in diced squash. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve as first course, mound portions of rice on 6 salad plates, sprinkle with remaining Parmesan cheese and garnish each with 1 rosemary sprig. To serve as main course, divide risotto equally among 3 or 4 shallow bowls, sprinkle with remaining cheese and garnish each with 1 rosemary sprig.

6 first-course or 4 main servings. Each appetizer serving:

241 calories; 653 mg sodium; 22 mg cholesterol; 9 grams fat; 33 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 2.35 grams fiber.

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