1995 Stephen Ross Pinot Noir “Edna Valley” (Central Coast) (About $21.)

A delicious, well-crafted Pinot Noir from former Edna Valley Vineyard winemaker Stephen Ross Dooley, issued under his own label. It’s a fine buy--deeply colored, tasting of blackberries and plums, with an appealing rustic character--so stock up on enough to take you through a summer’s worth of informal meals. (On the other hand, though it’s already interesting to drink, it should improve with age.) Dooley makes a couple of other Pinots that are even better, but in shorter supply.