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It’s the Cheeses

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

There is macaroni and cheese the color of an emergency road sign, and then there is pasta and cheese sauce, a more grown-up way to feed those childlike cravings for comfort food. This saucepan shells and cheese dish is the latter. I often eat the pasta with a green salad and, for dessert, brownies. It’s always best to bake your own brownies, but on a busy weeknight you can always pick some up at the market or a bakery.

* Ferreira, a former Times Food section intern, is a pastry chef at Greens in San Francisco.

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Saucepan Shells and Cheese

Green salad

Brownies

SAUCEPAN SHELLS AND CHEESE

1 (1-pound) package pasta shells

1 tablespoon butter, melted

1 tablespoon flour

1 1/4 cups milk

1 cup chicken broth

1 large shallot, peeled and halved

1/2 teaspoon prepared mustard

1/2 teaspoon salt

Pepper

Pinch nutmeg

2 ounces goat cheese

1/4 pound grated white Cheddar cheese

6 ounces fontina or fresh asiago cheese

Cook shells in pot of boiling water to cover according to package directions until just tender to the bite, about 10 minutes.

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Meanwhile, melt butter over medium heat. Incorporate flour into melted butter with small whisk or wooden spoon. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, about 2 minutes. Do not let butter brown. Whisk in milk and chicken broth. Add shallot halves. Cook over medium-high heat until sauce thickens, about 5 minutes. Remove shallot halves. Add mustard, salt, pepper to taste and nutmeg.

Stir in goat, Cheddar and fontina cheeses over low heat, whisking gently until cheese melts, about 2 minutes. Toss drained shells with cheese sauce.

4 servings. Each serving:

817 calories; 1,127 mg sodium; 99 mg cholesterol; 32 grams fat; 92 grams carbohydrates; 39 grams protein; 0.38 gram fiber.

Shopping List

1 log goat cheese

1/4 pound white Cheddar cheese

1/2 pound fontina cheese

1 package brownies

1 head lettuce

Staples

1 (1-pound) package pasta shells

Canned chicken broth

Nutmeg

Salt, pepper

Shallots

Prepared Mustard

Milk

Butter

Flour

Oil

Vinegar

Countdown:

30 minutes before: Bring water to a boil for pasta. Grate cheese; peel shallot. Wash lettuce for salad.

20 minutes before: Begin making sauce.

15 minutes before: Cook pasta; finish sauce. Make vinaigrette and toss with salad, then chill.

5 minutes before: Drain pasta and add sauce.

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