A Citrus Sorbet’s Herbal Essence

Most of us, if we garden, have some kind of garden fantasy. The perfect vegetable patch with plump tomatoes and baby lettuces, perhaps, or a flower border with gorgeous tulips, peonies and Queen Anne’s lace. My dream garden is full of herbs.

I love fresh herbs for their beauty and fragrance but mostly for their taste. It’s impossible for me to cook without using some sort of herbal seasoning--the fresher, the better. Unfortunately, as hard as I try to grow herbs, the little plants I put in the ground usually fall victim to snails or the heat. But not my rosemary. Nothing can destroy it. My hedge, which is probably as old as my house (built in 1908), covers an entire wall in my backyard. It’s so plentiful that I not only cook with it but I also use its glossy, dark green leaves to garnish platters and decorate the table. Because rosemary is so fragrant and imparts such a powerful taste, many people assume it’s an ingredient that should be used only with particular foods. This is rubbish. Rosemary can be as versatile as you want it to be.

Rosmarinus officinalis is the plant’s Latin name. It’s called Rosmarinus, or sea dew, because it was native to the Mediterranean, and officinalis, or of the pharmacopeia, because its aromatic branches and essential oils were frequently put to medicinal use. The Egyptians and Greeks believed rosemary comforted the brain, restoring speech and memory, while the Romans valued it for ceremonial rites. Many people thought the scent preserved the dead, thus making the leaves a symbol of eternity. Vestiges of this belief can be found in northern England, where sprays of rosemary are common in funeral processions. And over the years, the plant has found its way into numerous potions, some to induce prophetic dreams, others to keep one eternally young.

Although rosemary’s magical properties are debatable, its culinary powers are unquestioned. When my husband and I settled into our house, we became aficionados of the various ways to cook with rosemary. We thought we had exploited them all, stuffing chickens, covering lamb chops, spiking stews and flavoring breads--until we realized we had yet to make a dessert with it. After much looking, we finally found a recipe for lemon-rosemary sorbet that sounded so strange we just had to try it. Boy, were we amazed. The herbal infusion was more delicious and refreshing than either of us could imagine. Surprisingly buttery and subtle, the rosemary mellowed the tartness of the lemon, producing a rich, smooth flavor.

We had found the perfect summer dessert, and having an infinite supply of rosemary made preparing it a cinch. The sorbet quickly became a favorite among our friends that year. We made it for every occasion. When they asked us to bring something, we took sorbet; when we entertained at home, the constant on our menu was sorbet. To this day, whenever I serve this mysterious dessert, people ask: “What’s in this? I’ve never tasted anything like it.” I’m always tempted to spin some elaborate tale about a secret ambrosia, but I resist and simply tell the truth: “It’s rosemary.”

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Lemon-Rosemary Sorbet

Adapted from a recipe by Darren Deville, pastry chef at The Grape in Dallas

Makes 2 cups

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 1/2 cups water

1/3 to 1/2 cup fresh rosemary, finely chopped

1 1/3 cups fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons vodka, optional

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In saucepan, combine sugar and water over high heat. Stir occasionally until sugar is completely dissolved and syrup is simmering, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. You should have 2 cups of syrup.

Combine warm syrup with rosemary, lemon juice and vodka. Stir well, then let mixture cool to room temperature. For faster freezing, chill mixture in refrigerator.

Strain mixture through cheesecloth, then freeze in ice cream maker, following manufacturer’s instructions.

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Food stylist: Norman Stewart