Potato Pancakes
It’s latke season. These irresistible, crisp, golden potato pancakes are a traditional Eastern European Hanukkah food usually served with sour cream and applesauce and/or alongside smoked salmon.
* Solley’s: This Sherman Oaks deli is already in full-scale latke production for Hanukkah. Its “quite thick” pancakes, flavored with parsley and onions, are griddled and then deep-fried for crispness. An order of two comes with applesauce and sour cream ($5.50). If you’re ordering takeout or for a party, you can get either mini-latkes (50 for $69.50) or full-sized ones ($1.95 each or $5.99 per pound; there are four or five latkes to the pound). Order early for the holidays. Solley’s, 4578 Van Nuys Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 905-5774.
* Junior’s: Whenever you order a sandwich here, you also get some cute, crisp latkes made with potato, egg, onion and matzo meal; full orders (three full-sized or nine small latkes) come with sour cream and applesauce ($7.25). All latkes are formed on the griddle and finished in the fryer. Latkes for takeout should be ordered in advance. (Full-sized, 89 cents, minis 49 cents.) Junior’s, 2379 Westwood Blvd., West Los Angeles, (310) 475-5771.
* red: The latkes here, made with shredded potatoes, Italian parsley and a bit of onion, are plump, almost round, deep-fried cakes. They’re served at breakfast and brunch with a chunky, savory apple chutney and sour cream. You can also have them with smoked salmon and capers. At dinner, latkes are an appetizer, served with smoked salmon, creme frai^che and caviar. (Potato latkes, breakfast, $4.95; dinner, $7.50.) red, 7450 Beverly Blvd, Los Angeles, (213) 937-0331.
* Knoll’s Black Forest Inn: Germany makes latkes too. Kartoffelpfannkuchen mit Kaviar und Sauerrahm are topped with caviar and sour cream. Knoll’s also includes potato pancakes on its plate of regional specialties, and they’re served alongside venison, veal loin and sauerbraten. (Potato pancakes, $7.50.) Knoll’s Black Forest Inn, 2454 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 395-2212.
* Victor’s: Here the potato pancakes are thick, dense and fried to a deep golden brown, served with applesauce, or sour cream. (Potato pancakes, appetizer $4.95; full stack $7.25.) Victor’s Delicatessen, 1917 N. Bronson Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 464-0275.
* Canter’s: The landmark Fairfax delicatessen serves thick, crisp, oval potato pancakes redolent of onion, with sour cream and applesauce--guaranteed to put meat on your bones. (Potato pancakes, small order, $4.25; large order, $6.25.) Canter’s, 419 Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 651-2030.
* IHOP: Any international pancake house has to have latkes. IHOP franchises serve five thick ones to the order, with your choice of sour cream or applesauce. (Potato pancakes, $3.99--prices may vary.) IHOP, 3165 W. 6th, Los Angeles, (213) 224-9163; 3152 E. Foothill Blvd., Pasadena, (626) 351-5115; 441 E. Manchester Blvd., Inglewood, (323) 678-5881 and many other locations.