1990 Laurent-Perrier Champagne Brut, France. (About $40)

Now is the time of year to open the bubbly, and nothing celebrates the occasion quite like a fine Champagne. Laurent-Perrier’s brut from the 1990 vintage is a very dry Champagne with tremendous finesse on the palate, a delicate, creamy texture upheld by masses of fine bubbles and a finish that takes minutes to fade away. It’s an excellent value for the money.

When you get hold of a bottle of Champagne like this, don’t stop with the aperitif or toast. It goes so beautifully with food, you can easily drink it all through the meal. Or at the very least the first courses--Champagne and Christmas Eve’s oyster stew, for example.

Widely available.