1995 Domaine des Amouriers Vacqueyras, Rho^ne Valley (About $16)

Just as Beaujolais has its Morgon or Fleurie (specific village designations that indicate a leap in quality over plain Beaujolais-Villages), Co^tes-du-Rho^ne has its village appellations too. And Vacqueyras, next to Gigondas, is known for its mouth-filling, concentrated red wines.

Domaine des Amouriers is a gorgeous example. Smoky, tasting of plums and blackberries, with good acidity and a beautiful concentration, it has enough character to make any meal more interesting.

If I had a fireplace, I would roast a leg of lamb and some potatoes in the embers and uncork a bottle of this Vacqueyras to go with it.

Available at Wine Exchange in Orange and Hi-Times Cellars in Costa Mesa. Both will ship.