Unglamorous Kale Returns to the Soup Pot

For centuries, kale helped get European peasants through the winter. One of the few green vegetables that survives harsh, cold weather, it added essential vitamins to their diet. Over the years, however, kale was ignored as more glamorous greens came into favor.

There is renewed interest in this curly-leafed vegetable because it is low in calories and high in nutrients. A half cup of cooked kale has only 18 calories and more than half the daily requirements of vitamin C and a fair amount of vitamin A; it’s also a good source of calcium, magnesium and iron.

My favorite kale recipe is a popular Portuguese soup of greens and potatoes. And it’s not one of those country dishes with numerous ingredients that take all day to cook. It’s convenient to prepare and serve and is a good example of a simple recipe with few ingredients.

To make the soup more substantial, consider adding sausage. Portuguese custom calls for including a rich garlic sausage, such as chorizo. I sometimes use Polish kielbasa, chicken or turkey sausages or even fat-free vegetarian sausages, which means I can make it as rich or as lean as I like.

Levy is the author of “30 Low-Fat Vegetarian Meals in 30 Minutes” (Warner Books, 1997).

PORTUGUESE KALE SOUP (VEGETARIAN)

1 1/4 pounds boiling potatoes, quartered

5 cups water or vegetable or chicken broth

Salt

3/4 pound kale, stalks discarded

1 onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Pepper

Good kale has crisp dark green leaves; avoid kale with leaves or stalks that are wilted. To make with meat or poultry sausages, cut 1/4 pound garlic sausage or turkey-garlic sausage into 1/4-inch slices. Saute in skillet until most of fat is rendered, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Add to soup after cooking kale and simmer 2 to 3 minutes. If using vegetarian sausages, slice and add to soup after cooking kale and simmer 2 to 3 minutes.

If not adding sausage, consider substituting vegetable or chicken broth for the water.

Bring potatoes, water and dash salt to boil in covered medium saucepan. Reduce heat to low and cook until potatoes are very tender when pierced with fork, about 25 minutes.

Stack kale leaves and halve lengthwise. Shred crosswise into thin strips with sharp knife.

Remove cooked potatoes from pan with slotted spoon. Reserve cooking liquid. Peel and mash potatoes and return to pan of cooking liquid.

Bring soup to boil while stirring. Add kale, onion and olive oil. Cook uncovered over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until kale and onion are tender-crisp, about 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

3 to 4 servings. Each of 4 servings:

181 calories; 116 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 26 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 1.81 grams fiber.