Lamb Shanks

Meaty and big on flavor, slow-cooked lamb shanks make a most satisfying winter meal. Here’s how a number of the city’s cooks prepare them:

* Joe Joe’s: Chef Thomas Munoz makes a hearty appetizer of lamb shanks with eggplant gnocchi. (Lamb shank appetizer, $8.) Joe Joe’s, 13355 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 990-8280.

* Out Take Cafe: This perennially packed Studio City cafe braises lamb shanks, then serves them on a bed of fettuccine with a red wine herb sauce and a cleverly apt garnish of celery root puree. (Lamb shank, $11.95.) Out Take Cafe, 12159 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 760-1111.

* Spencers: Lamb shank Provencal at Spencers in Pasadena is a good-sized shank of tender Colorado lamb that’s braised and served on cannellini beans. (Lamb shank, $24.) Spencers, 70 S. Raymond, Pasadena, (626) 583-8275.

* Jozu: Chef Suzanne Tracht braises lamb shanks and serves them with Chinese black beans, Kabocha squash and wilted mustard greens. (Lamb shank, $18.) Jozu, 8360 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 655-5600.

* Boxer: Long a favorite on the menu at this small, smart restaurant, the lamb shank here is braised and served in rosemary jus with winter vegetables and a stack of socca--chick pea pancakes. (Lamb shank, $18.) Boxer, 7615 W. Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 932-6178.

* Bistro Provencal: At this new French bistro from the folks at La Cachette, lamb shanks are braised with dried figs and fresh mint and served with apple and raisin polenta. (Lamb shank, $15.) Bistro Provencal, 829 N. La Cienega, West Hollywood, (310) 360-9064.

* Le Petit Bistro: Baked lamb shanks are served with a red wine vegetable sauce over couscous with a carrot vichy. (Lamb shank, $11.50.) Le Petit Bistro, 631 N. La Cienega, West Hollywood, (310) 289-9797.

* Troquet: Tim Goodell turns Colorado lamb shanks into a savory lamb osso buco at this new bistro in South Coast Plaza. It’s served in a graceful lamb and rosemary jus, with potato gnocchi instead of the usual polenta. (Lamb osso buco, $16 at lunch; $18 at dinner.) Troquet, South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol Ave., Costa Mesa; (714) 708-6865.

* Alto Palato: As a special, chef Roberto Perotti slowly roasts lamb shanks with a little red wine and rosemary. He serves the tender shank with its own juice and wedges of roasted potatoes. (Lamb shank, $18.) Alto Palato, 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 657-9271.