1996 Meyer-Fonne Pinot Blanc “Vielles Vignes,” Alsace ($11)

An impressive Pinot Blanc from young Alsatian winemaker Felix Meyer and a wonderful bargain for the quality. The pale gold wine is rich in fruit and extracts because it comes from old vines and remains on its lees for up to six months, but its ripeness and power are offset by good acidity and crispness, making it an ideal food wine. Who knew Pinot Blanc could be this attractive?