Vinicola Hidalgo Manzanilla “La Gitana,” Sanlucar de Barrameda, Spain. (About $20)

For summer drinking, a glass of pale gold Manzanilla, the dry Sherry from the seaside town Sanlucar de Barrameda, makes a superb aperitif. This full-bodied yet delicate example comes from the 200-year-old Sherry firm Vinicola Hidalgo. In its lovely complex bouquet, there’s a whiff of salt tang from the sea.

Keep a chilled bottle on hand for unexpected guests. Serve it in small tulip-shaped wine glasses or in the traditional straight-sided Sherry copa, with bowls of olives and roasted almonds. Of course, it’s also delicious with thin slices of jamon serrano, the exquisite raw-cured Spanish ham.