COOKBOOK WATCH

As much as we protest the avalanche of Italian cookbooks only modestly controlled in recent months, we still find ourselves looking for yet another new pasta to try for dinner most nights. Biba Caggiano, TV cooking show host and Sacramento restaurateur, zeros in on these cravings with her new book "Italy al Dente: Pasta, Risotto, Gnocchi, Polenta, Soup" (William Morrow, $25). These are the Italian dishes Americans love most, and within the book's pages are recipes that we may not intellectualize but we'll certainly want to cook.

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