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The Creole Trinity

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Mandel's latest book is "Celebrating the Midwestern Table" (Doubleday & Co., 1996)

Creole cooking boasts the full-flavored combination of French, Spanish and African influences in New Orleans. Creole shrimp relies on the culinary trinity of green bell peppers, onions and celery for its unmistakable depth of flavor. Serve it over Saffron Rice With Two Onions. For dessert, try the sophisticated banana split sundae that combines three flavors closely associated with New Orleans--coffee, bananas and pralines.

Slices of sauteed andouille sausage speared on toothpicks is an excellent appetizer, followed by a first course salad of sliced avocados on greens with a garlicky vinaigrette, generously garnished with diced tomatoes.

NEW ORLEANS CREOLE SHRIMP

Scallops or diced, boned, skinned chicken breast meat can be substituted for the shrimp.

1/3 cup oil

1/3 cup flour

1 cup diced onions

1 cup diced celery

1 cup diced green bell pepper

1 1/2 cups thinly sliced green onions

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/4 cup minced parsley

1 (14 1/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes in juice, pureed

1 3/4 cups low-sodium chicken broth

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon dried thyme

3 whole bay leaves, crushed

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Freshly ground pepper

40 large shrimp, peeled

Heat oil in 2-quart heavy saucepan over medium heat. When hot, slowly stir in flour. Cook, stirring constantly, until medium brown color, about 8 minutes. Add onions and cook over low heat, stirring often, 10 minutes. Add celery, bell pepper, green onions, garlic and parsley and cook, stirring often, until heated through, about 3 minutes.

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Stir in pureed tomatoes, broth, Worcestershire sauce, thyme, bay leaves, salt, cayenne pepper and black pepper to taste. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer uncovered, stirring often, 20 minutes.

Add shrimp and cook, stirring often, until shrimp are just opaque, about 3 minutes. Serve hot spooned over saffron rice.

6 servings. Each serving without rice:

305 calories; 657 mg sodium; 184 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 28 grams protein; 1.06 grams fiber.

SAFFRON RICE WITH TWO ONIONS

2 tablespoons oil

1 cup diced onions

2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 1/2 cups rice

3 cups low-sodium chicken broth

Pinch saffron

3/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 cup thinly sliced green onions

Heat oil in 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, add onions and garlic and cook, stirring often, until onion is softened, about 3 minutes. Add rice, broth, saffron, salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, until all liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Stir in green onions with fork. Add little water if mixture is too thick. Let rest, covered, 10 minutes.

6 servings. Each serving:

210 calories; 587 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 6 grams fat; 36 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.32 gram fiber.

COFFEE-BANANA SUNDAES WITH PRALINE BANANA SAUCE

1 tablespoon butter

3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed

1/3 cup heavy whipping cream

1 small banana, pureed, plus 2 medium bananas, thinly sliced

Pinch salt

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

12 pecan halves

1 1/2 pints coffee ice cream or coffee yogurt

The praline sauce is also good spooned over sliced bananas and coffee ice cream or over puddings, poached pears and simple cakes.

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Simmer butter, sugar and cream in small saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring often, until mixture coats back of spoon, about 4 minutes. Stir in pureed banana, salt and cinnamon and cook 1 minute. Puree in food processor or blender until smooth. Stir in pecan halves.

Divide sliced bananas among 6 dessert dishes. Top with 1/2 cup ice cream or yogurt. Spoon 2 tablespoons hot praline sauce over each dish. Serve immediately.

6 servings. Each serving:

400 calories; 127 mg sodium; 67 mg cholesterol; 20 grams fat; 56 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.30 gram fiber.

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