1996 Seghesio “Old Vine” Zinfandel, Sonoma. (About $16.)

The sheer concentration and depth of this well-crafted Zin telegraphs the fact that it doesn’t come from any young upstart vines. Intensely plummy and ripe, yet not at all jammy, Seghesio’s “Old Vine” Zinfandel is made from grapes grown on the estate’s oldest vineyard, one originally planted in 1895. It’s an elegantly structured wine--a worthy alternative to the overblown, overripe Zins so much in vogue.

Me, I’d drink it with just about anything.