Gumbo

Roux-based, thickened with either okra and/or file (the powdered leaves of the sassafras tree), gumbo is a rich, spicy stew with as many different recipes as there are cooks who make it.

* The Shark Bar: Try Miss Ruby’s Seafood gumbo, made with fish, shrimp, crawfish, a dark red roux and file. There’s also the Big Easy gumbo of roasted chicken and andouille sausage, which is thickened with file and okra. (Gumbo, $5.95-$6.95.) The Shark Bar Restaurant, 826 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 652-1520.

* Uncle Darrow’s: Every Friday and Saturday, this small cafe makes its own tasty file gumbo with shrimp, chicken, chicken sausage and blue crab. (Gumbo, $9.) Uncle Darrow’s Cajun Creole Eatery, 5301 Venice Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 938-4293.

* Gagnier’s: When wandering the Third Street Promenade, stop in at this upstairs cafe for the file gumbo, a rich, well-seasoned stew of shrimp, chicken, Louisiana hot sausage, smoked sausage, crawfish and oysters, served over rice with French bread. (Gumbo, $6.95.) Gagnier’s Creole Kitchen, 1315 3rd Street, 2nd Level, (310) 319-9981.

* Shenandoah Cafe: This American cafe serves traditional Louisiana okra gumbo made with chicken or seafood. (Gumbo: appetizer, $7.45; at dinner, $13.45 with chicken, $16.45 with seafood.) Shenandoah Cafe, 4722 E. 2nd St., Long Beach, (562) 434-3469.

* Cafe N’Awlins: Chef Mark Foster stirs up a knockout dark-roux-based file gumbo with crab meat, shrimp and spicy sausage. Served with white rice. (Gumbo, $4, cup; $8, bowl.) Cafe N’Awlins, 122 San Fernando Blvd., Burbank, (818) 563-3569.

* The Gumbo Pot: Sit outside in the Farmer’s Market and enjoy either the seafood gumbo, with shrimp and crab meat, or the gumbo yaya, with andouille sausage, chicken and shrimp. They’re both made with both okra and file powder and served with rice (on top of the gumbo), salad and corn bread. (Gumbo, $5.50.) The Gumbo Pot, Farmers Market, 6333 W. 3rd St, Los Angeles, (213) 933-0358.

* House of Blues: What better food to eat with the blues but a nutty, smoky, dark-roux okra gumbo with chicken and andouille sausage? (Gumbo, $4.95.) House of Blues, 8430 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, (213) 848-5100.

* Harold & Belle’s: In Jefferson Park, try this seafood file gumbo chock-full of shrimp, ham, sausage, crab and chicken. Served with rice and French bread. (Gumbo, small $9.50; large, $14.75.) Harold & Belle’s, 2920 W. Jefferson Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 735-9023.