1996 Domaine de Baumard Savennieres “Clos du Papillon,” Loire Valley (About $19)

An absolutely gorgeous Chenin Blanc that shows off the grape’s laser-like qualities. Full of tension and vibrancy, “Clos du Papillon” from Domaine de Baumard exhibits a finely spun texture and a tremendous finish. It’s like drinking liquid gold. Savennieres ages beautifully, so you can expect even more nuances to develop over time. It’s a stunner from one of France’s most underappreciated appellations and one of the Loire Valley’s great winemakers. And a brilliant wine with food.