1996 Alban Vineyards Syrah “Reva,” Edna Valley. (About $20)

Alban Vineyards’ Syrah “Reva” shows why John Alban is considered one of the Central Coast’s--and California’s--masters of Rho^ne-style wines. It’s a gorgeous garnet-hued Syrah with a scent of cool plums, leather and smoke. A small proportion of Viognier gives the wine a floral note. Despite a great concentration of velvety fruit, there’s something wild and untamed about the Reva. As terrific as it is now, it’s still very young. This one is definitely a keeper.