1997 Poggio alle Gazze Sauvignon Blanc, Tuscany. About $20

This stunning Sauvignon Blanc is made by Ludovico Antinori, Piero Antinori’s younger brother and the producer of the super-Tuscan Ornellaia. A standout in the current crop of Tuscan white wines, it comes from the up-and-coming Bolgheri region on the Tuscan coast, where Sassacaia led the way. The 1997 Poggio alle Gazze has a delicate grace, its beautifully ripe fruit balanced by just the right amount of acidity and a slightly bitter citrus finish. One of the best Sauvignon Blancs to come out of Italy, it’s a remarkable bargain for its quality and provenance. It makes a great summer aperitif and is a particularly good match with mussels and other shellfish.

Available at most fine wine shops. If you can’t find this wine, ask your local store to order it from the distributor, Young’s Market, (800) 627-2777.