Skate

Question: After monkfish and calamari, what’s next? Answer: A dense, snow-white, pleasurably springy meat from the wings of skate fish. Skate goes particularly well with browned butter and lemon, but chefs are just beginning to plumb its possibilities, so far with excellent results.

* Spago: Lee Hefter sautes Maine skate wing so it’s moist and tender, yet crisp and nicely browned. He serves it on a bed of sweet and sour braised cabbage with fennel and anise, and with a ginger brown butter. (Skate, $25.) Spago Beverly Hills, 176 N. Can~on Drive, Beverly Hills, (310) 385-0880.

* Troquet: Tim Goodell’s sauteed Eastern skate wing with brown butter and a caper vinaigrette comes with roasted beets, and a watercress salad. (Skate, $19.) Troquet, South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol, Costa Mesa, (714) 708-6865.

* Les Deux Cafes: Chef David Wynns lightly sautes skate and serves it sauced in brown butter, sometimes accompanied by a potato and turnip salad seasoned with walnut oil and mustard and sometimes by caraway-seeded potatoes and a green salad with lots of chervil. (Skate, $26.) Les Deux Cafes, 1638 N. Las Palmas Ave., Hollywood, (323) 465-0509.

* Ciudad: At this new downtown Nuevo Latino restaurant brought to you by the Border Grill’s Two Hot Tamales, Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, sauteed skate is served on a bed of polenta and smothered with portabello mushrooms, pitted green olives and a balsamic butter vinaigrette. (Skate, $16.) Ciudad, 445 S. Figueroa St., Los Angeles, (213) 486-5171.

* Rix: Neal Fraser, the chef at this Santa Monica supper club, sautes skate in a balsamic beurre noisette--a browned butter sauce with balsamic vinegar--and adds a scattering of fried capers. (Skate, $11.) Rix, 1413 5th St., Santa Monica, (310) 656-9688.

* Pinot Provence: Florent Marneau, the chef of Orange County’s Pinot, serves skate on special when available. He serves sauteed skate wing with beurre noisette and a caper vinaigrette. (Skate, $18.50.) Pinot Provence, Westin South Coast Plaza, 686 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa, (714) 444-5900.

* Water Grill: The most innovative preparation of skate occurs in Michael Cimarusti’s kitchen. Skate wing is encrusted in brioche crumbs, sauced with an artichoke puree, a parsley and anchovy emulsion and paprika oil, then garnished with artichoke chips. (Skate appetizer, $14; entree, $24.) Water Grill, 544 S. Grand St., Los Angeles, (213) 891-0900.