A Chef’s Recipe Notes

L’aperitif is a way of life in the South of France and Provence. It is the French version of Spanish tapas and is a good excuse to enjoy the company of good friends and family and a nice way to welcome your guests before the meal. For an aperitif serving of Green Olive Cake, thinly slice the cake and serve it with green Picholine olives from Provence and black Nicoise olives. Serve two slices per person with a bouquet of mixed greens tossed with olive oil and red wine vinegar. With this cake, I like to serve pastis liqueur, very light with a lot of ice and water, or even more interesting would be a homemade vin de peche, which I always keep in my refrigerator.

I use a saffron potato puree in the aioli to give it a nice silky texture, sharp flavor and golden color. If you don’t have a mortar, chop the garlic with a knife and make the aioli in a mixing bowl or use a stand mixer. The important thing is never to chop garlic in a food processor because it gives aioli a sour taste and mushy consistency.

Consider serving the Big Aioli warm at best. The diversity of the garnish makes the assembly a little long, and it is difficult to keep everything very hot. If you really want to serve the garnish hot, consider individual servings of three or four elements a plate, served as different courses.

With the aioli, I might serve a Bandol red wine, a 1994 Cha^teau Pradeaux, Cuvee de la Rose Folle. For a wine to accompany the Socca Tart, I suggest a Co^tes du Rho^ne or a rose, such as the 1996 Tavel Domaine de la Mordoree. My suggestion for the Banyuls, both for cooking the fruit and drinking with the dessert, is the 1989 Collita, Domaine du Mas Blanc, De Parce, but a good Port will work as well.

Serve the poached fruit at room temperature or, better yet, a little warm. Place three figs or two pears in large cup or soup plate. Spoon the sauce on the fruit and sprinkle with orange zest. Serve the Orange Madeleines on the side.