The Key to Security
Are you still relying on the lock that was on the front door when you moved into your house? The lock seems like an old, dear friend, but it may not be. Nearly 3 million U.S. homes are broken into every year. Although not all break-ins are preventable, exterior locks and deadbolts are your most important line of defense.
Today’s locks offer much greater protection. But picking the right lock set can be very confusing. We’ve done the initial research on the three major types of exterior locks on the market--keyed-entry doorknobs, handle sets and deadbolts--to sort out features and costs.
The kind of lock you need depends on where it’s going in the house and your budget.
To be secure, any exterior door needs a deadbolt. You have a choice of separates--a deadbolt and a lock set mounted separately--or a handle set that incorporates both features. Prices vary from $25 to more than $300, reflecting a wide range of quality and style.
Higher-end units typically feature solid, forged-brass components and a Grade 2 or even a Grade 1 (commercial duty) security rating.
An anti-theft option you should look for on lock sets or handle sets is a deadlocking latch bolt; it prevents burglars from jimmying the latch with a credit card. On deadbolts, look for hardened pins that can withstand sawing. And because a latch or bolt is only as strong as the strike plate it engages, make sure the lock comes with a heavy-duty plate and 3-inch screws.
A handle set that allows you to open both the deadbolt and latch from inside with a single motion is convenient and could be a lifesaver in an emergency. Another terrific convenience is universal keying, which allows you to carry one house key despite having installed locks on other doors from different makers. As for aesthetics, look for dual-torque springs that prevent knobs from sagging and a no-tarnish lifetime finish.
Interior door locks only prevent nuisance entry--they won’t keep bad guys at bay. Grade 3 security is sufficient. But you might want a model with a latch kickoff that keeps the door from accidentally locking behind you. Also be sure there’s an emergency release (look for a small hole in the center of the handle) that lets you open the door from outside with a paper clip.
As with exterior locks, look for dual-torque springs to keep knobs from sagging and a no-tarnish lifetime finish. Interior locks cost considerably less than exterior locks. Most go for $8 to $16, though high-end forged, solid brass locks can cost 10 times that.
Deadbolts
These go on exterior doors, typically 6 to 12 inches above the keyed entry (locking door handle) or handle set (handle and deadbolt combination) for added security.
Double-cylinder deadbolts require keys to open the lock from the interior as well as the exterior. This makes it more secure--burglars can’t unlock the door by breaking door glazing or a sidelight and reaching in--but it can be very dangerous if there’s a fire and you need to make a fast exit in smoky, poor-visibility conditions.
Proponents suggest hiding a key nearby, but many building codes require single-cylinder units that have a turn piece on the inside.
Features to look for:
* For most homes, a Grade 2 rating. Grade 1, a commercial rating, offers added security at added cost. Avoid Grade 3. And beware of ads touting deadbolts with Grade 1 features. The rating must be for the entire lock.
* A forged, solid-brass plug (the part that the key turns) and cylinder (the part that surrounds the plug). Avoid less expensive locks that have softer brass-plated zinc cylinders and plugs.
* A six-pin keying system, which is harder to pick than a five-pin system.
* A heavy-gauge steel or brass strike plate. Secure it with 3-inch-long screws that go through the jamb into the framing.
* A 1-inch throw, which means the bolt extends a full inch into the jamb.
* A free-spinning, saw-proof, hardened-steel pin at the center of the bolt. If thieves use a saw on the bolt, the steel will resist the blade and the pin will spin, frustrating the cutting action of the saw.
* A housing that protrudes into the door face rather than one that sits flush with it. This prevents thieves from sheering the deadbolt off with repeated hammer blows.
* Large turn pieces on the interior side that offer more leverage for children or anyone else who has difficulty opening deadbolts. Look for Americans With Disabilities Act (ADA) compliance.
* Conveniences that also add security. Weiser Lock’s Powerbolt 3000 deadbolt ([800] 677-5625; https://www.weiser-lock.com) can be unlocked by remote control. Titan’s NightSight model ([800] 327-5625; https://www.blackanddecker.com) has a motion detector that switches on a light to illuminate the cylinder, making it easier to find.
What you’ll pay:
* Baldwin ([800] 437-7448; https://www.masco.com) single-cylinder deadbolt ($88); double-cylinder model ($106).
* Kwikset ([800] 327-5625; https://www.blackanddecker.com) single-cylinder deadbolt ($12); double-cylinder model ($15).
* Schlage ([888] 805-9837; https://www.schlagelock.com) single-cylinder ($17); double-cylinder ($25).
* Titan double-cylinder model ($28).
* Titan NightSight ($50).
* Weiser Lock Powerbolt 3000 ($150). * Weiser Lock double-cylinder ($25).
Keyed-Entry and Handle Sets
Keyed-entry lock sets, also called cylindrical and exterior-door lock sets, are lever or doorknob units installed in exterior doors that are meant to work in tandem with a deadbolt. Handle sets are lock sets with doorknobs or lever handles inside and swan’s neck-type handles outside.
Handle sets always include a deadbolt. Look for models where the lock and deadbolt are interconnected so you can unlock both with a single motion in case of an emergency.
Features to look for:
* A Grade 2 security rating.
* A deadlocking latch bolt, or dead latch. This small rod adjacent to the strike that protrudes into the adjacent doorjamb prevents the lock from being jimmied with a credit card.
* An emergency-exit feature that allows the inside knob to turn freely to open the door, even when it’s locked.
* A six-pin keying system. It costs more than a five-pin keying system but is harder to pick.
* A heavy-duty steel or brass strike plate. Screws securing it should be 3 inches long and penetrate the framing behind the jamb.
* Dual-torque springs to keep knobs from sagging or loosening with age.
* A protective shroud behind the rose (the decorative circular collar mounted flush to the door). The shroud shields the lock mechanism even if the rose is pried off.
* Universal keying, which allows a single key to operate locks from different manufacturers.
* A tarnish-free finish and mechanical warranty (both lifetime).
What you’ll pay:
* Baldwin handle set ($340).
* Baldwin keyed entry ($155).
* Kwikset keyed-entry/deadbolt combination ($22).
* Weiser Lock keyed-entry/deadbolt combination ($24).
* Titan keyed-entry lever unit ($40); doorknob unit ($36).
* Titan AccessOne remote-controlled handle set ($179).
How to Choose a Lock
For exterior doors, a Grade 2 deadbolt is a must, whether separate from the lock set or integrated into a handle set.
* It should have at least a 1-inch throw; a free-spinning, hardened-steel center pin; and a heavy strike plate held with 3-inch screws. And the inner housing should protrude through the door somewhat.
* Single-cylinder deadbolts are safer in emergencies; look for single-action opening (deadbolt and handle) in handle sets.
Reprinted from the pages of Today’s Homeowner magazine. To get more advice on improving your home, call (800) 456-6369 or visit the Web site at https://www.todayshomeowner.com.