1998 Mason Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley (About $13)

This is a well-crafted Sauvignon Blanc with the fresh, zingy fruit that places it firmly in the New World, rather than the Loire Valley. The family-owned Mason Cellars in Oakville has made a wine that is ideal for summer drinking. Ripe and flowery rather than steely and nervous, it nevertheless exhibits plenty of varietal character. It makes a fine aperitif or accompaniment to goat cheese, frittatas, grilled fish and Asian and fusion dishes.

Available at Mission Wines, Pasadena, (626) 403-9463, and Wine Exchange, Orange, (714) 974-1454. If you can't find this wine, ask your local store to order it from Mason Cellars, Oakville, (707) 944-9159.

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