1997 Terre di Dora Fiano di Avellino, Campania, Southwest Italy (About $19)

Fiano di Avellino is a little-known southern Italian white wine that's just waiting to be discovered. It's made from the Fiano grape, which the Romans called vitis apiana because its honeyed scent attracted so many bees. Fiano is mostly grown in the province of Avellino, near Naples. Terre di Dora's 1997 is a wonderful example--pale gold with glints of green, with a light scent of honey and citron offset by a stony mineral character and bright acidity. The terroir comes through loud and clear in the lingering finish. It's an interesting wine, and one that's ideal for summer drinking.

Available at Hi-Time Wine Cellars, Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Wally's, West Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606; and The Wine House, West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731. If you can't find this wine, ask your local store to order it from Vias Imports, (310) 390-4862.

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