Fine Faux Flan

Entrancing nuances of caramel mingle with the tang of yogurt in a Bengali sweet called mishti doi. Available in Southern California’s Bangladeshi markets, it is somewhat like flan but less rich because it contains no eggs. The procedure is to boil milk until it is concentrated, add caramelized sugar and yogurt starter and let the mixture stand until set. In Bengal, sweet shops sell mishti doi in unglazed clay pots that are discarded after use. Here, it is packed in American-style take-out cartons.

Mishti Doi (sweetened yogurt), $3 or $5 (the smaller size will serve six), at Jafran restaurant and market, 4153 W. 3rd St., Los Angeles. (213) 386-7799.