Ration Stamp Doughnuts

Although sugarless desserts have always been popular among dieters, there was a time when going without the sweet stuff was not a matter of choice.

When sugar was rationed during World War II, Americans had to devise new ways to make do with less--about 1 cup per person per week.

Sugar rationing began in May 1942 after consumers rushed to grocery stores, demanding sugar in 100-pound bags. They feared sugar shortages like those during World War I. It didn’t end until after the war, in June 1947.

Along with canned foods, fresh meat and butter, sugar became a scarce and therefore valuable commodity. It was among the most missed rationed products, according to a poll taken in January 1945. That year, the civilian per-capita consumption of sugar fell to 73.9 pounds, the lowest since 1909 and nearly 30 pounds less than in the years immediately preceding and following the war.

At The Times, the Food section staff offered “ration pointers” to help families understand which book of ration stamps and coupons could be used when. They also provided recipes that would make the most of rationed ingredients.

This recipe for Chocolate Drop Doughnuts appeared in the women’s pages on March 4, 1945, under the headline, “Sugar Stretched by Sweetened Chocolate Use.” It instructed home cooks to use just 1/3 cup sugar and 1/3 cup sweet ground chocolate to satisfy the “most demanding sweet tooth.”

After trying the recipe in The Times Test Kitchen, we discovered that the doughnuts have a terrific sweet, chewy flavor. Some might prefer more chocolate, but the 1/3 cup sugar called for is perfect.

Clearly, here’s a warm, home-cooked dessert that knows how to withstand much more than war rationing: It has passed the test of time.

Chocolate Drop Doughnuts

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes

1 egg

1/2 cup milk

1 tablespoon shortening, melted

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 2/3 cups flour

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup granulated sugar, plus more for dusting, optional

1/3 cup sweetened cocoa powder

Oil

Powdered sugar, optional

* Beat egg, milk, shortening and vanilla in mixing bowl on medium speed 1 minute.

* Sift together flour, baking powder, salt, sugar and cocoa in separate bowl. Stir into liquid mixture until combined.

* Drop doughnuts by tablespoons in 1-inch hot oil heated to 375 degrees and fry until brown, about 4 minutes. Drain on paper towels.

* Roll while warm in granulated sugar or dust with powdered sugar.

18 to 20 doughnuts. Each of 18 doughnuts: 100 calories; 157 mg sodium; 13 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 16 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams protein; 0.38 gram fiber.