And the Weiner Is?

The following are results from a blind tasting in The Times Test Kitchen. Hot dogs were divided into two categories: all-beef and meat combinations, though tasters were not told to which category the hot dogs belonged. Each hot dog was poached in its own fresh water for four minutes.

We also tasted two novelty styles: Heartland Buffalo and Yves Veggie Cuisine Jumbo Veggie Dogs. Admittedly, in the case of beef and buffalo, it was a matter of comparing apples and pears. However, slipped in among the beef, the buffalo was a much less popular meat.

The veggie dog was remarkable for having been spat out by almost every taster, even those from different sessions who had not witnessed previous reactions. Remarks about it included “It smells like burnt rubber” and “It tastes like Elmer’s Glue.” Our tasters enjoin those cooking for vegetarians to serve classic vegetarian dishes rather than mock meat products.

The other remarkable point was, in both categories, the clear preference of our tasters for the top three beef dogs and top two combinations over the vividly collapsing enthusiasm for the stragglers.

The reservations in the case of the undoubtedly high-quality beef of Niman Ranch was lack of flavor; perhaps it was too lean. Some were castigated for nasty aftertastes. Mainly the problem was mushiness. Defenders of mush say that it is a style better suited to children. Perhaps. It all depends on the state of their teeth.

Asked for a top dog, the unanimous vote was for Hebrew National, with its distinctive, slightly coarse-grained kosher style, with the more mainstream-style dogs, Farmer John and Oscar Mayer, tied for second in both categories.

BEEF

1) Hebrew National: clear favorite, “smoky,” “chewy.”

2) Oscar Mayer and Farmer John: remarks interchangeable, including “what hot dogs taste like,” “simple,” “nice.”

3) Niman Ranch: “OK,” “a bit flat.”

4) John Morrell: “flat.”

5) Heartland Buffalo: “don’t like texture.”

MIXED MEATS

1) Farmer John Wieners (pork and beef): “tastes like celery seed,” “excellent texture.”

2) Oscar Mayer Wieners (turkey and pork): “smooth and smoky.”

3) Ball Park Franks (beef, pork and turkey): “bland.”

4) John Morrell (chicken and pork): “It’s your basic hot dog,” “baby food.”

5) Bar S Jumbo Franks (chicken, beef and pork): “tastes like a garlic powder/salt blend.”

6) Zacky Farms Chicken Franks: “mushy.”