Bring on the Pizza! Cooked Tomatoes Rule

When was the last time you had a really fabulous tasting tomato? Have you almost forgotten what they are supposed to taste like? Tomatoes are very delicate and easily damaged, so the emphasis in tomato research has mostly focused on making sure they can survive great shipping distances, even though taste and texture often end up the big losers in the process.

Tomatoes are low in calories (38 calories in one large raw tomato), a reasonably good source of vitamin C (a 4-ounce tomato can supply a third of the recommended daily allowance), plus they have a little beta carotene, potassium, folic acid and other B vitamins, iron and fiber. They are also a very good source of lycopene, which is a powerful antioxidant that makes tomatoes red.

Interestingly, the lycopene in cooked and processed tomatoes (sauce, paste, salsa, canned) is more easily absorbed than in fresh tomatoes. It is also absorbed better when you eat a little fat in the same meal with your tomatoes--like olive oil or cheese. (Sounds a lot like pizza, doesn’t it?)

Lycopene occurs in only a few foods other than tomatoes, such as pink grapefruit, red peppers, guava and watermelon. It has become such an important carotenoid because consuming a high intake of cooked tomatoes seems to reduce the risk of prostate and other cancers.

Tomato sauce and paste and other canned tomato varieties are all very high in lycopene. Even ketchup contains enough to be a significant food source for those who consume large quantities. One word of caution: Processed tomatoes can be very high in sodium, whereas fresh tomatoes are relatively low.

Tomatoes are members of the nightshade family, which includes some rather poisonous plants, but also some good ones like the potato, bell pepper and eggplant. Tomatoes are among the top sources of vitamin C in the diet.

Among the most recognizable categories in the stores are the cherry (round and bite-sized), the plum (small and egg-shaped) and the slicing (large and round) tomatoes. Unless you are lucky enough to be able to grow your own, there are some shopping tips you should try to follow:

* Never buy tomatoes from a refrigerated case. The cold will damage them. Exposure to temperatures under 55 degrees during growth or after harvest prevents the tomato from ripening properly and developing its full flavor.

* Look for tomatoes that are displayed loose instead of in plastic-covered containers. They are easier to evaluate. Vine ripened tomatoes will almost certainly taste better, but they offer no nutritional advantage.

* Look for plump, heavy tomatoes with smooth skins. They should be free of bruises, blemishes or deep cracks. If they still have their leaves, the leaves should be fresh and green.

* Ripe tomatoes are fragrant, but even mature green ones should have a mild fragrance. If they have no aroma, they were probably picked when they were still quite immature and they never will ripen.

* Pick a size that works for you. The size has no bearing on the flavor, texture or quality.

* Tomatoes that are too ripe (if they are not moldy or beginning to rot) can still be used in sauces.

Once you bring your tomatoes home, you should store them at room temperature. If you want to ripen them more quickly, put them in a paper bag with an apple or a banana to let the ethylene gas from the fruit speed up the process. Keep them out of the sunlight, and store them stem side up so that you don’t bruise them.

Once they are red and yield slightly to the touch, they will keep for another day or two. If you must hold on to them longer, put them in the butter compartment of your refrigerator, but let them come back to room temperature before serving.

When you get ready to slice your tomatoes, wash them gently in cold water. Then stand the tomato upright and cut from top to bottom. This protects the juices. Don’t add sliced tomatoes to salads or sandwiches until the last minute so that they hold on to their juice. Salty dressings or condiments will tend to draw juice out of a tomato.

If you want to use peeled tomatoes and you don’t want to use the canned varieties, drop a tomato into boiling water and blanch for 15 to 30 seconds (the harder the tomato, the longer it will take). Remove from the pot with a slotted spoon and then let it cool under cold running water. The skin will come off easily with a paring knife. You can do the same thing in a microwave by heating for 15 seconds on high power.

The ways to prepare tomatoes are limited only by your imagination. With all the good news about cooked tomatoes, they’re clearly not just for salads anymore.