Wine of the Week

1997 Chappellet Chenin Blanc “Dry,” Napa Valley

About $9

In California, Chenin Blanc--the grape behind the fabled Loire Valley wines Vouvray, Quarts de Chaume and Savennieres--has mostly been used for inexpensive plain-vanilla white wines. More often than not, they’re slightly sweet with little of the sharp acidity that makes the high-strung Loire versions so fascinating (and capable of aging).

Chappellet, however, is committed to this grape, producing not one but three Chenin Blancs: this dry version, an old-vines cuvee and a moelleux (sweet). The pleasant Chenin Blanc “Dry” is a good buy, with floral and citrus tones that should go beautifully with food.

Widely available in the Los Angeles area.