Nothing, Not Even a Wall, Can Get in the Way of Expansion.

There is nothing carved in stone about the position of most interior walls in a home. These partitions were built where they are either to perform structural duties too costly to accomplish another way or to suit the interior design fashions of the day.

But, as times change, tastes change, as do building methods. What was considered convenient and attractive in the 1950s--to say nothing of the 1850s--is often cumbersome when matched with present-day lifestyles.

In the last 20 years, one of the most notable design shifts has been the move toward opening up greater interior space in a home. In the great-room concept, for example, a designer extends the boundaries of a particular room so it becomes multifunctional.

The most popular candidate for such treatment has been the kitchen, where home buyers seem to feel that bigger is not only better, but also essential. They want plenty of room for food preparation as well as dining and entertaining.

What is virtually standard in new homes can be achieved by owners of older homes. Frequently, all that’s required is the removal of an interior wall, or at least part of one. Depending on the situation, the job can be a good deal easier than many people would think.

In fact, the flat archway installed for this story was in a home built in the early 1900s. Its kitchen had a large adjoining pantry that had a big window with a pleasant view. This room provided a great deal of storage space, but it was terribly inconvenient.

The homeowners were willing to sacrifice the storage space to get a comfortable eating area in the kitchen and to enjoy the light and view from the window. The wall was removed. It took two days for two people to tear out the old wall, install a new header and patch the plaster. Painting, wallpapering and laying a new floor took longer, of course.

This may sound a little too simple, and in some ways it is. Any wall can be moved or removed. The real issue is how many problems you are willing to overcome, and this usually means how much money are you willing to spend.

To decide, you have to discover a couple of things. The first is what, if any, structural purpose the wall serves. The second is what, if any, mechanical systems (plumbing, heating, electrical wiring) run through the wall. Solving the structural problem is usually easier than rerouting plumbing, heating, and electrical systems.

To figure the wall’s structural duties, you’ll have to go exploring. This is best done by removing a 16-inch square section of ceiling next to the wall. It can be repaired later. Shine a flashlight into this access hole to see how the ceiling joists above the wall are positioned. If they run parallel to the top plate of the wall, then the wall you want to remove bears no weight on its own. It can be removed without disturbing the structure of the house.

If, however, the joists are perpendicular to the wall, you have a load-bearing wall and must replace the support provided by its studs with a new header. Some walls may not be load-bearing even if the joists do run across them, mostly short walls defining closet spaces. If you can feel or see the end of a joist resting on top of the wall, you know it’s a load-bearing wall.

If you must install a header, you have two options: A dropped header can be installed by a competent do-it-yourselfer, but a flush header is a contractor’s job. A dropped header spans the width of the opening end and is supported on both ends by jack studs like the headers over windows or doors.

Mechanical systems inside the wall usually show on the surfaces in the form of light switches, radiators or registers and faucets or drains. If there are none visible, you could still have lines leading upstairs. Electrical changes are easier than plumbing or heating. You can take a peek by removing the trim baseboard and wallboard behind it. Use care on quality trim so it can be reused. If you find plumbing or ductwork, call in a contractor for an estimate. If you find nothing but dust and dead air, you can remove it without problems.

Drywall makes less dust and debris; lath and plaster construction calls for sealing off the room to protect the rest of the house. Use polyethylene sheets and masking tape to seal all doors. Wear gloves and a respirator. Carry out the debris and vacuum the mess as you go.

You can install a doubled 2-by-10-inch header with a half-inch plywood spacer to span a 10-foot gap without building temporary support walls. Simply turn the studs 90 degrees, which leaves room for one header. When it’s in place on the jack studs, remove the wall and install the spacer and the doubler. A 12-foot opening calls for doubled 2-by-12s with a similar spacer. A bathroom or heavy furnishings like a piano or wall-size bookcases above mean you should consult a contractor.

Look along your header stock to spot the crown--slight upward curve--of the 2-by-10. Mark both pieces so this can be installed facing up, which reduces a tendency to sag when the load comes on it. If the header is hard to pry in place on the second jack stud, you can wedge it up with a stud cut a half-inch longer than header height. Lay a shingle on the floor under the stud and drive it sideways at the bottom until the header slips in place.

Once it’s set, add the plywood spacer and the second half of the header. Toenail the assembly into the framing. Cover it and patch the walls and ceiling with drywall or plaster to finish the job.