1997 Steele Zinfandel Pacini Vineyard, Lake County, Mendocino (About $17)

This graceful, elegant Zinfandel has a gorgeous deep color and a scent of raspberries and smoke. It’s much like a Pinot Noir in texture and weight, with fruit that’s ripe but not overly sweet or jam-like. This is what plain old good winemaking can do, and it’s a real bargain at this price. It would go with just about anything, from pasta with tomato sauce to grilled or roasted meats.