Leg of Lamb
Roast lamb is one of the great dishes of spring, whether it’s served with flageolet beans in the French manner or with peas and mint jelly, American style--or even in a sandwich. Here are a few places to find this increasingly rare old favorite.
* Byzantine Greek Cuisine: At this new Greek restaurant in Glendale, a generous portion of lamb oven-roasted with garlic and herbs is served with rice, roasted potatoes and a fresh vegetable. For a bit of variety, order the combination plate, which adds moussaka, dolmades, spanakopita and pastitsio (a Greek pasta) to that moist, tasty roast lamb. (Lamb dinner, $14.65; combination, $15.95.) Byzantine Greek Cuisine, 208 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 662-9393.
* Musso and Frank: Here’s the classic roast lamb plate at the classic Raymond Chandler-era restaurant right in the middle of downtown Hollywood: roast lamb carved to order and served with mint jelly and a baked potato. Don’t forget to get a side order of green peas. (Lamb dinner, $20.50; peas, $2.60.) Musso and Frank, 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 467-5123.
* Beadles Cafeteria: At the newer version of this popular age-old Pasadena cafeteria, leg of lamb is sliced to order while you’re loading up your tray with, say, jewel or pistachio Jell-O, macaroni and cheese, carrot and raisin salad, peas and Boston cream pie. The lamb is served with gravy and mint jelly. (Leg of lamb, $6.35.) Beadles Cafeteria, 825 E. Green St., Pasadena, (626) 796-3618.
* Philippe the Original: For 80 years now, the indefatigable counter women at Philippe’s (“Home of the French Dipped Sandwich”) have been carving roast lamb right off the bone for each sandwich order (meaning it was about 75 years ahead of the early ‘90s lamb sandwich fad). Get your French roll “double dipped,” order a half dill pickle and slather on the restaurant’s own fabulously hot mustard. (Lamb sandwich, $4.85.) Philippe the Original, 1001 N. Alameda St., Los Angeles, (213) 628-3781.
* Pastis: Here is the simple, wonderfully satisfying French bistro dish gigot d’agneau: leg of lamb oven-roasted with garlic and thyme and served on a bed of green flageolet beans with a little lamb jus. For a family-style lamb dinner (eight or more), call ahead and the kitchen will roast a leg of lamb for your party. (Leg of lamb dinner, $17.) Pastis, 8114 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 655-8822.
* Tam O’Shanter: Atwater Village’s famous, faintly Scottish Tam O’Shanter is in its late 70s--and of course it serves leg of lamb. Marinated in fresh mint, rosemary, garlic, pepper and mustard, oven-roasted and carved to order, the lamb comes with a choice of soup or salad, mashed potatoes and a fresh vegetable. (Leg of lamb dinner, $16.95.) Tam O’Shanter, 2980 Los Feliz Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 664-0228.
