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Piper-Heidesieck Champagne Brut, “Cuvee Year 2000,” Champagne (About $22)

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From now until well after the New Year, occasions that call for opening a bottle of good bubbly are sure to increase exponentially. The wise wine buyer will have a stock of bottles on hand, if not chilled. Cuvee Year 2000 from the respected Champagne house Piper-Heidesieck gets everything right--and at an attractive price for a French Champagne. Pale gold, with a fine bead of bubbles, this brut boasts a lovely yeasty nose, a creamy texture and an intriguing, slightly mineral aftertaste. Sip it slowly; it opens up in the glass.

About $24. Available at fine wine shops.

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