The Art of Shirtwear for Robust Gentlemen
Dear Fashion Police: As a child of the ‘60s, I have a deep-seated distrust of both the police and fashion. I suppose that it comes down to not wanting anyone telling me what I can or cannot do, or wear, for that matter. However, I somehow feel compelled to read your column, of course bristling when I feel you are dictating appropriateness, while grudgingly acknowledging that you know your stuff.
Here’s why I am writing to you. I tend to be a large man and, depending on which way the pendulum is swinging, have a rather large stomach. It seems that almost all shirts for men are made with tails and designed to be tucked in. Men with large guts don’t look good in tucked-in shirts. T-shirts, polo shirts or Hawaiian shirts don’t require tucking in but are often tacky. Are there decent casual and more formal solutions?
--LETTING IT ALL
HANG OUT
Dear Let: Dictate appropriateness? Us? We suggest, advise, inspire, persuade, urge--but dictate? You have us all wrong. We are only here to protect and serve, just like those other cops in the blue uniforms.
We appreciate you came to us, despite your feelings about authority, which, by the way, you might want to talk to someone about.
Your problem is not in your waistline, it’s in your head. Because to be honest, you’re going to look like a guy with a big gut whether or not you tuck your shirt in. Leaving it untucked is not going to create such a camouflage that people are going to think, “Wow! Look at those abs!”
We’re not saying this to be cruel, we’re trying to tell you that you’ll ultimately look better wearing a shirt that fits, tucked into pants that fit. As a rule, we favor tucked in over left out, since the former looks less sloppy than the latter.
But wearing your shirt tucked in also means not wearing your pants waaaaaay below your natural waistline, as some men do. They’re fooling no one, either.
Just to let you know we’re not the only one who believes this, we talked to Shlomo Kantrowitz, vice president of sales and marketing for Epic Menswear in New Haven, Connecticut, an online source for large-size men’s clothing.
His philosophy is this: “The worst thing people can do is try to convince themselves that they’re not really what they are, and that is an issue we all face, one way or another. When you get in front of the mirror, you don’t need to say, ‘I’m fat,’ but you do need to say, ‘I do need clothes that fit me properly.’ It’s difficult for a person who’s robust to deal [with the fact] that they’re always being looked at in an unflattering way, which is sad, but that’s the world we live in.”
Epic carries everything from underwear to sportswear, khakis, corporate casual shirts and accessories in a range of sizes. Alterations are free. Reach them at https://www.epicmenswear.com, or call (203) 787-6594.
Jason Louis, based in Green Bay, Wisconsin, stocks well-known brands and designer labels (Hathaway, Tommy Bahama, DKNY). Check out their Web site at https://www.jasonlouis.com. You can’t order online, but they will take phone orders; call (920) 499-9555.
To prove that we’re not dictatorial, we’ll even tell you where you can get shirts to wear untucked. Rochester Big and Tall in Beverly Hills (310) 274-9468, which carries labels such as Zegna, Versace, Jhane Barnes, Kenneth Cole and DKNY, has those shirts. They’re cut a little longer in the front so they won’t pull up. Rochester has stores in most major cities.
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Dear Fashion Police: I am one of those “no fashion sense” shoppers who buys the entire ensemble from the rack, wears it the same way every time and can’t envision a new look. I have an ankle-length, black knit skirt that was purchased with a blouse to wear for an event. What can I pair this black skirt with now to wear every day, or for less dressy evenings out? I’d also like to hide my tummy bulge. And what shoes should I wear?
--SHORT ON IDEAS
Dear Short: You were smart enough to buy a basic black skirt, so your clothing sense must exist on some level. Maybe you just need to get in touch with your inner fashion consultant.
Let’s start with day looks. The twin set is still alive and selling in stores everywhere. They’re in cotton, silk, cashmere, acrylic, Angora and blends, in every color in the spectrum. Some have floral prints or embroidery. If you choose a twin set, make sure it’s not too clingy so your tummy won’t show.
A tunic sweater offers another look. Again, you’ll find this in everything from a moss green V-neck chenille to a basic black turtleneck.
Jackets are yet another option, and you can go as tailored as you like, or more casual with a no-collar style. Choose longer jackets rather than cropped--for that tummy situation.
Even those man-tailored shirts will work, but you may have to try a few before you find the one that suits you best. We like the shirttail bottom ones with the three-quarter sleeves, which we’ve seen in cotton, cotton/poly blends, and cotton with some stretch.
As for evening, all of the above will do, but look for dressier pieces. For instance, try a twin set with beading around the collar, or a tunic top in a jewel-tone velvet. Remember that accessories count, so try a burnout velvet scarf, or add some sparkle with jewelry.
One piece of advice: Don’t rely on over-layering to camouflage your stomach--that will just add bulk. Sweaters, jackets, etc., should just skim the body and not pull or ride up when you move.
The shoes will depend on your outfit, but they can range from low-heel pumps to T-straps to to boots.
Write to Fashion Police, Los Angeles Times, Times Mirror Square, Los Angeles, CA 90053, fax to (213) 237-4888, or send e-mail to socalliving@latimes.com.
