Ironing Center Makes a Chore Easier
Routine household tasks are easier to complete if you’re well-organized and fully equipped. And to prove it, we’ll show you how to transform the most routine of chores--ironing clothes--into a pleasant, effortless procedure with a built-in ironing center.
The prefabricated metal cabinet neatly houses everything you need in one place, including the iron, ironing board, spray starch and even an electrical outlet. And when it’s not in use, the board and all its accessories are hidden behind a beautiful red-oak, raised-panel door.
Ironing centers have been around for more than 50 years, but there’s renewed interest in them because many modern homes have large walk-in closets or dedicated laundry rooms--two ideal places for ironing.
For this project, we installed the Broan-NuTone Model BR45 ironing center (about $350; [800] 558-1711; https://www.broan.com), which comes pre-wired with a built-in work light, 30-minute timer and receptacle outlet.
The light and outlet are live only while the timer is operating. An alternate safety cutoff switch kills all power to the cabinet when the ironing board is raised and the door is closed.
The padded 42-inch-long board adjusts to two different height positions and swivels 180 degrees for left- or right-handed users. There’s even a metal-lined shelf for safely storing an iron that’s still warm after use.
The unit we installed has a solid-oak, raised-panel door, but it’s also available with a birch-plywood, flush-panel door ($299) or a mirrored door ($349). Broan-NuTone produces ironing centers that start as low as $199. Some are easier to install than the BR45, but they aren’t equipped with an outlet, work light or timer.
Logical Location
Ironing centers are designed to fit into the space between two 16-inch on-center wall studs. The BR45 requires a rough opening that’s 14 3/8 inches wide by 51 3/8 inches tall. The width is calculated for studs that are 16 inches on center; if yours are 24 inches on center, you need to add some framing.
When choosing a location, keep in mind the unit requires electrical power. You can run a new circuit down from the attic, but it’s usually easier to tap into a nearby electrical outlet.
We installed our ironing center directly above a wall outlet. However, the unit fit so snugly between the studs there was not any room for the electrical cable. We solved the problem by boring a hole through the stud and pulling the cable down from the top of the rough opening and into the outlet box using what’s called electrician’s fish tape.
Installation Steps
First, mark the rough wall opening between two studs. Be sure the rectangular outline is square and its vertical lines are plumb. The bottom of the opening should be about 22 inches above the floor; that places the ironing board at a comfortable working height.
Bore a 1 1/2-inch-diameter peephole in the drywall and check for hidden pipes, wires or ducts. If the space is clear, cut out the opening with a drywall saw. Next, screw a short 1-by-2 cleat to the stud on each side flush with the bottom edge of the rough opening. The cleats will help support the metal cabinet.
The electrical cable enters through the top of the cabinet, so bore a three-quarters-inch-diameter access hole through the same stud that the electrical outlet is attached to. Locate the hole just above the top of the rough opening. Turn off the electricity to the room in which you’re working and remove the cover plate from the electrical outlet.
Unscrew the outlet and gently pull it out of its box, but don’t disconnect any wires. Use a screwdriver to remove the knockout plug from the top of the outlet box. Now use electrician’s fish tape or a long wire with a hook on one end to pull 12/2 nonmetallic sheathed electrical cable (Romex) from the access hole in the stud down into the outlet box.
Turning to the cabinet, remove the door and set it aside. Place the bottom of the cabinet into the rough opening. Tilt the top forward and reach up and feed the cable end down into the electrical box inside the cabinet.
Push the cabinet so it’s flush to the wall. At this point, if you haven’t done a lot of wiring on past projects, call in a licensed electrician to make the final connections at the outlet and inside the cabinet.
It’s well worth the $75 to $100 to know the unit is safe and wired in accordance with the National Electrical Code. Once the wiring is complete, secure the cabinet to the studs with a pair of 1 1/2-inch-long screws that are driven through each side.
Finally, finish both sides of the red-oak door with stain and two coats of polyurethane. If you prefer a natural-wood look, apply just the polyurethane.
Reprinted from the pages of Today’s Homeowner magazine. To receive more expert advice on improving your home, call (800) 456-6369 or visit the Web site at https://www.todayshome owner.com.