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Charosets of the World

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SPECIAL TO THE TIMES

For as long as I can remember, Passover has been the most important holiday in our home, and everyone looks forward to the Seder. Family and friends, often as many as 30, attend the event, and I am constantly looking for new and different ideas to enliven their Passover experience. Passover begins at sundown today.

Before the meal, the story of the exodus from Egypt is retold, and everyone participates, from the oldest to the very young. The Seder plate of foods that symbolize the events that took place long ago is prominently displayed on the table. One of these foods is charoset, a fruit, nut and wine mixture that represents the mortar used by the Jews when they were slaves in Egypt.

Charoset ingredients vary according to the areas where Jews traveled and depend on which products were available. The mixture from Eastern Europe was usually apples, walnuts, cinnamon and sweet wine. The Sephardic recipes differ depending on the country. The Yemenite Jews, for example, make charoset with dates, dried figs, coriander and cayenne pepper, making for a spicy mixture, typical of Yemen’s cuisine.

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At my Seder table, I try to have representatives of many of these different charosets. A label is attached to each plate to identify the country it represents. This makes for lots of conversation, and our guests discuss where their ancestors came from and which fruits, nuts and spices were used in their families.

In keeping with the concept of using local products, I decided to create a special California-style charoset and have given it to our children. I hope that they will include it as part of their family Seder. The recipe, combining ingredients typical of California, consists of avocados, prunes, almonds, orange juice and raisins. Perhaps this idea will inspire you to create your own charoset recipe.

This year, I plan to surprise my family with several new recipes that combine charoset with some of the typical foods we normally eat during the eight-day holiday.

One of these is a chicken “sausage” stuffed with a Greek charoset of dates, raisins and ginger. It can be a welcome change from the roasted chicken that is usually offered as a main course. In this recipe, I wrap the boned chicken breasts with plastic wrap to resemble a sausage and poach them for 15 minutes. The liquid trapped inside the wrap develops its own flavors and, when unwrapped, becomes a wonderful sauce for the chicken.

Lamb is one of the traditional Passover foods, and I have added a Middle Eastern Sephardic charoset mixture to my lamb burgers. It adds an unusual flavor and sweetness to the lamb and keeps it tender and juicy. Mashed potatoes and spring asparagus are a perfect accompaniment.

To finish the Seder dinner, one Passover dessert will be a homemade coffee cake filled and topped with Eastern European charoset. The chopped apple-nut mixture brings a unique taste and adds crunch to the cake.

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Chocolate-covered nuts, strawberries, dried fruit and matzo farfel are favorite Passover desserts.

Chicken “Sausage” With Greek Charoset

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 40 minutes

6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

1/2 recipe Greek Charoset

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

* Place 1 chicken breast between 2 (12-inch) pieces plastic wrap and pound to an even thickness. Remove top piece plastic wrap. Arrange chicken breast on bottom sheet plastic wrap, smooth side down; shape 2 tablespoons Charoset mixture into log in center of prepared chicken breast. Roll breast into a “sausage,” using plastic wrap to help tighten it. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Wrap in plastic wrap allowing 3 inches wrap to overlap on ends. Tie by twisting ends together to seal. Repeat with remaining chicken breasts and Charoset. (This can be done ahead and refrigerated.)

* Poach “sausages” in simmering water in large skillet 15 to 20 minutes. Cool. Unwrap, reserving juices.

* Transfer to cutting board and, using sharp knife, cut into 1-inch slices. Serve with reserved juices and remaining 1/2 recipe Greek Charoset, if desired.

6 servings. Each serving: 378 calories; 163 mg sodium; 99 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 30 grams carbohydrates; 42 grams protein; 1.23 grams fiber.

Greek Charoset

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes plus 1 hour chilling

2 cups pitted dates, cut in half

1/2 cup raisins

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons chopped walnuts

1/4 cup chopped pine nuts

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 cup sweet Passover wine

* Blend dates and raisins in bowl of food processor until very finely minced. Transfer to large bowl and add walnuts, pine nuts, ginger and wine and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and chill 1 hour.

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2 1/2 to 3 cups. Each tablespoon: 44 calories; 1 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 7 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.28 gram fiber.

Lamb Burgers With Sephardic Charoset

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes

1 pound lean ground lamb

1 recipe Sephardic Charoset

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 tablespoon oil

* Combine lamb, Charoset and salt and pepper to taste in large bowl. Knead into ball, divide into 8 pieces and shape into patties.

* Heat oil in nonstick skillet over medium heat, and fry patties until crisp and brown on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side.

8 servings. Each serving: 237 calories; 64 mg sodium; 30 mg cholesterol; 15 grams fat; 18 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams protein; 0.97 gram fiber.

Sephardic Charoset

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes plus 1 hour chilling

1/2 cup dates, pitted and cut in half

1/2 cup dried apricots, cut in half

1 apple, unpeeled, cored and diced

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 cup chopped walnuts

* Blend dates, apricots, apple and allspice in bowl of food processor until very finely minced. Add walnuts and pulse on and off until mixture is blended. Do not puree. Transfer to bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 1 hour.

2 cups. Each tablespoon: 24 calories; 1 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.20 gram fiber.

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Passover Coffee Cake With Central European Charoset

Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons safflower or peanut oil

1/3 cup ground walnuts

5 eggs

1 1/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1 1/4 cups matzo cake meal

1 teaspoon coarse salt

Juice of 2 lemons (4 to 5 tablespoons)

Grated zest of 2 lemons

1 recipe Central European Charoset

1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

* Lightly grease 8-inch-square baking pan with 2 tablespoons oil. Sprinkle with ground walnuts and set aside.

* Mix egg yolks and 1 1/4 cups sugar on high speed until light and fluffy. Add matzo cake meal and salt alternately with 3/4 cup oil, lemon juice and zest, and mix well.

* Beat egg whites until stiff but not dry. Using rubber spatula, fold 1/4 beaten egg whites into egg yolk mixture until well blended. Fold in remaining beaten egg whites.

* Pour half batter into baking pan. Sprinkle 1 cup Charoset over batter. Combine 2 tablespoons sugar and cinnamon and sprinkle half over top. Drop large dollops of batter over Charoset and spread evenly. Sprinkle with 1 cup Charoset and remaining cinnamon-sugar. Batter will fill pan completely.

* Bake at 350 degrees until toothpick inserted into center comes out clean and cake is golden brown, 1 hour.

12 servings. Each serving: 292 calories; 225 mg sodium; 89 mg cholesterol; 10 grams fat; 46 grams carbohydrates; 6 grams protein; 1.14 grams fiber.

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Central European Charoset

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 15 minutes plus 1 hour chilling

2 Red Delicious apples, peeled, cored and coarsely chopped

1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

2 tablespoons honey

1 teaspoon cinnamon

1/4 cup sweet Passover wine

* Combine apples, walnuts, honey and cinnamon in bowl and mix well. Add wine and mix well. Cover with plastic wrap and chill 1 hour.

About 2 1/2 cups. Each tablespoon: 27 calories; 0 sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 2 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.17 gram fiber.

Yemenite Charoset

Active Work and Preparation Time: 15 minutes

You can make an unusual dessert from this recipe by rolling charoset into 1-inch balls and dropping the balls into 8 ounces of melted semi-sweet chocolate. Smooth over, then refrigerate until firm.

1 cup pitted, chopped dates

1/2 cup chopped dried figs

1/3 cup sweet Passover wine

3 tablespoons sesame seeds

1 teaspoon ground ginger

Ground coriander

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons matzo meal or Passover potato starch

* Blend dates, figs and wine in bowl of food processor. Transfer to bowl, add sesame seeds, ginger, dash coriander, cayenne and matzo meal and mix thoroughly.

1 1/2 cups. Each tablespoon: 40 calories; 1 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 1 gram fat; 9 grams carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.42 gram fiber.

California Charoset

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes plus 1 hour chilling

1 large avocado (about 3/4 pound), peeled, diced and seed removed

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1/2 cup unpeeled almonds

1/3 cup golden raisins

4 pitted dates, cut in half

2 pitted prunes, cut in half

2 dried figs, cut in half

Grated zest of 1 orange

1/2 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons matzo meal

* Toss avocado and lemon juice in bowl. Set aside.

* Place almonds, raisins, dates, prunes and figs in bowl of food processor or blender and coarsely chop. Add orange zest and avocado mixture and process 2 or 3 seconds more. Transfer mixture to glass bowl and gently add orange juice and matzo meal. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate 1 hour.

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About 2 cups. Each tablespoon: 39 calories; 1 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 5 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.30 gram fiber.

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