Chew the Rags

Hilachas means rags. It’s also the name of a Guatemalan dish of beef stewed until it separates into raggedy shreds. Guatemalteca Bakery’s hilachas is mildly seasoned, rather than spicy with chiles. An order comes with pale yellow rice, black beans cooked to a puree and a big, pale roll.

Hilachas, rice, black beans and roll, $4.60 at Guatemalteca Bakery & Restaurante, 4032 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 382-9451.