1998 Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence, Southern France

This deep ruby-violet red, from one of the most spectacularly beautiful parts of Provence, is a top candidate for my house wine. It tastes like dark, juicy plums with a perfume of grapes, wild herbs and violets.

The Cartier family of Mas de Gourgonnier has long farmed its vineyards without the use of chemical fertilizers, weed killers or insecticides. This is a natural wine--made in the vineyards, not in the cellar--with everything I love about southern Rhone wines.

I can picture it with bouillabaisse, with a grand aioli, with beef daube, with grillades--grilled meats, especially little birds and slabs of pork ribs.

In warm weather, it shows best slightly chilled.

About $12. Available at fine wine shops.