1996 Cha^teau Haut-Batailley, Pauillac, Bordeaux

Bordeaux prices continue to march upward, making even Burgundy seem like a bargain. What’s a poor Bordeaux lover to do? Some are buying less. Some are exploring reds from other French regions with a better price-quality ratio.

But if you don’t have deep pockets and simply must have a classed-growth Bordeaux, look to Cha^teau Haut-Batailley. This fifth-growth Pauillac is well-knit and focused, exhibiting the darker tones that Cabernet Sauvignon takes on in Pauillac along with plenty of furry tannins and good acidity. The estate is managed by Jean-Eugene Borie of Cha^teau Ducru-Beaucaillou, whose winemaking expertise is a factor in Haut-Batailley’s ability to perform beyond its class.

This is a rarity, a Bordeaux from the great 1996 vintage with a price tag of less than $40.

About $35. Available at fine wine shops.