How to Read an Egg Label
Eggs sold in food stores will have been washed, dried, “candled” (held against light to inspect for cracks and blood spots), sized, packed and refrigerated. At the best farms this is done within a day of laying, though industry critics and progressive producers would like to see dating regulations tightened. As for the information now on labels, here is what it means:
Brown eggs come from brown Rhode Island Red birds favored by organic farmers. They are closer to wild fowl than white hens--bigger, braver and more outgoing. Farmers say their eggs are stronger.
White eggs come from White Leghorn birds, favored by intensive farmers. These birds are more genetically hybridized.
Organic eggs come from farms that comply with the Organic Foods Act of 1990. The chickens are fed organically grown feed, such as corn, soy beans and peas, which has been ground in dedicated mills. Hence the increased cost--from four to five times that of conventional eggs.
Free-range organic eggs come from birds raised on an organic regimen and also given access to the outdoors. Eggs sold by larger dairies such as Alta Dena are pre-washed. Those bought at farmers’ markets should be washed by consumers.
Free-range birds are housed in sheds rather than in cages but are fed conventional feed. This includes soy beans, corn, various vitamin and mineral supplements and meat and bone meal.
Farm-fresh is a marketing term for conventional eggs from caged birds. The health of the birds depends on the farmer. Not all intensive systems are alike. Some are downright grim; others house calm, healthy birds. Though it was rumored in the late ‘80s that Salmonella enteritidis was a byproduct of factory farming, one defense of suspended cage systems is that they are more hygienic than barnyards. To a degree, the quality of the farmer will show in the egg. A strong-shelled egg that stands proud when broken is a good sign.
Fertilized eggs are popular with Vietnamese and at health-food markets. Hens are kept with a rooster, usually at a ratio of 5 to 1.
Grades A and AA reflect the condition of the egg. Buy Grade AA for pert eggs with strong shells. Grade A are less strong. There is also a Grade B, but it rarely gets to the retail market, and is usually pasteurized and used in cooked commercial products.
Dating reflects the date the eggs were packed. Good producers will wash, grade and pack eggs the day they are collected. Recommended sell-by dates are within 30 days of packing, or 21 days for most conscientious growers. Eggs returned to packers should be used in processed foods. The basic measures of freshness in Grade A and AA are how the white supports the yolk and how pertly the yolk stands up in the pan.
New Federal temperature regulations demand that from point of collection, eggs from large commercial producers be kept no warmer than 45 degrees. This is thought to check bacterial reproduction. However, in intact Grade AA eggs, the shells, albumin and series of membranes should be enough to keep bacteria from reaching the yolk naturally. Europeans prefer to keep unwashed eggs at room temperature.