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Fish of the North Woods

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Mandel is a cookbook author

In summer, my husband and I like to spend weekends in the Canadian wilderness north of Minnesota, casting our lures for smallmouth bass. The eating, though, is almost as important as the fishing. The camp’s dinner bell always signals a mad rush to the table.

The traditional “shore dinner” at Lake Kishkutena is fried fish, roasted potatoes with green onions, baked beans, creamed corn and always a great dessert. This menu has not changed for at least 30 years, through two generations of cooks.

The recipes for the fish, potatoes and zucchini fudge cake are easy. The baked beans and creamed corn are even easier; they come out of the can. Add coleslaw if you wish. These recipes can be doubled or tripled to serve a crowd.

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Fried Fish “Kish-Style”

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes plus 30 minutes chilling

A filet of any mild fish can be substituted for the smallmouth bass. You won’t use all the egg mixture and crumbs, but the fish is easier to prepare with these amounts. Refrigerate the prepared fish at least 30 minutes for the crumb coating to set.

2 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning

Freshly ground pepper

1 cup cornflake crumbs

4 (6-ounce) mild fish filets, rinsed and blotted dry

Shortening or canola oil, for frying

Tartar sauce and/or ketchup, for serving

* Combine eggs, salt, Cajun seasoning and pepper in shallow pie plate or soup bowl. Mix with fork until frothy. Put crumbs in another shallow plate.

* Dip 1 filet at a time into egg mixture, then coat with crumbs. Place in single layer on baking sheet covered with piece of wax paper. Chill at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.

* Heat 1/2 inch shortening or oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. When hot (test with cornflake crumb; it should sizzle), fry filets until very brown, about 3 minutes each side, longer if fish is thick. (Fry in batches if necessary to prevent crowding.) Transfer to paper-towel-lined baking sheet. To keep warm as rest are fried, place in 225-degree oven. Serve hot with tartar sauce and/or ketchup.

4 servings. Each serving: 302 calories; 777 mg sodium; 169 mg cholesterol; 21 grams fat; 3 grams carbohydrates; 23 grams protein; 0.02 gram fiber.

Slow-Roasted “Fried” Potatoes and Green Onions

Active Work Time: 15 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 2 hours

3 pounds boiled small red or white boiling potatoes, at room temperature

2 1/2 tablespoons butter

3/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

2 cups thinly sliced green onions (white and light green parts only)

Ketchup, for serving

* Halve small potatoes; quarter larger ones. Potatoes should be roughly same size. Soften 1/2 tablespoon butter to grease 13x9-inch baking pan. Place potatoes in prepared pan. Toss with salt and pepper. Dot with remaining butter.

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* Bake at 375 degrees, uncovered, shaking pan occasionally to be sure potatoes don’t stick, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Spread green onions over potatoes. Shake pan to mix them in. Bake until potatoes are crisp, about 30 to 40 minutes. Taste; add seasoning as desired. Serve hot with ketchup on the side.

8 servings. Each serving: 207 calories; 271 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 4 grams fat; 41 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams protein; 0.93 gram fiber.

Glazed Chocolate Zucchini Cake

Active Work Time: 30 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour plus 30 minutes cooling

I prefer Baker’s German’s sweet chocolate.

1 3/4 cups cake flour

1 3/4 cups sugar

3/4 cup cocoa powder

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

Generous 1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup light sour cream

2/3 cup oil

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 zucchini, finely grated (use food processor), about 2 cups

* Sift together flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt. Set aside.

* Combine sour cream, oil, eggs and vanilla in bowl of electric mixer on low speed. Increase speed to medium and mix until light, about 2 minutes. Add flour mixture. Use low speed to mix just until well combined. Stir in zucchini. Transfer to greased and floured 13x9-inch baking pan. Smooth top.

* Bake at 350 degrees until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Set aside to cool completely.

GLAZE

1/4 cup water

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

6 ounces sweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup powdered sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Salt

* Place water and butter in small saucepan. Bring to boil; keep hot. Place chocolate and powdered sugar in food processor fitted with metal blade. Process until chocolate is fine (like sugar). With machine running, pour hot water mixture through feed tube. Continue processing until chocolate is melted and glaze is smooth, scraping once. Add vanilla and dash salt; pulse 1 to 2 times. Set aside until slightly thickened. Pour over cool cake. Use small knife to smooth and evenly distribute.

12 to 16 servings. Each serving: 452 calories; 191 mg sodium; 52 mg cholesterol; 24 grams fat; 59 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams protein; 0.43 gram fiber.

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Plate and towel from Crate & Barrel stores.

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