My Love Affair With the Tomato
I have to confess: My passion for tomatoes tends to wane from time to time. It’s probably an occupational hazard of running an Italian restaurant, the culmination of constant exposure to too many tomatoes--too many of them significantly less than perfect.
At my caffe, Angeli on Melrose Avenue, people expect the comfort of finding their favorite dishes on the menu all year, so I’m constantly up to my elbows in tomatoes. By mid-winter, I’ve begun to recoil from those hard tasteless fruits that masquerade as real tomatoes.
And yet right now in my frontyard vegetable garden, 25 plants are busily producing what will soon become bushels of summer tomatoes, ready to be turned into meal after meal for months to come.
Thank God for gardening. Because right when my interest is at its lowest point in January, the seed catalogs start to plop through the mail slot. Even catalogs that have black and white text and no pictures describe their tomatoes in such vividly sensual terms that I find I’m having insane conversations with myself. (“If I double-dig one more plot near the white lavender, maybe I can tuck in three more plants.”)
I begin to think back over the year and realize that I do still love tossing together a pungent, fragrant bowl of spaghetti alla checca every Saturday night. And then I find myself reaching for one of the last jars of home-canned tomatoes to throw into a curry or to pump up a rich recipe of braciole.
And so it begins, the process every gardener looks forward to with a kind of ur-hope: to begin again, a new year, a new garden, new varieties to try and familiar favorites to be sure to include.
But to be honest, for the last couple of years I’ve been using the seed catalogs primarily as an educational tool; I read them to learn which new hybrids have been developed and which varieties are making their first appearance on the American market.
When it comes time to buy, there’s only one place I go. When the Tomatomania flyer from Hortus arrives in early March, I become weak in the face of so much choice. Hortus is a unique nursery in Pasadena that is as much a source of planting ideas as it is a store to purchase plant material and tools. Just walking around there reinforces my desire to create something wonderful from the dirt.
The Tomatomania flyer typically lists nearly 200 varieties of every shape, color and flavor imaginable. I begin making lists and soon recognize that my standard-size frontyard is hardly the back 40. And, after all, I do want to plant a few other veggies besides tomatoes.
So the list is made and revised, made and revised until finally it’s done. Some of the choices are easy. I love the crisp acidity and beautiful color of Green Zebra. My standard red round type will be Carmello, as it is each year; it’s a wonderful thin-skinned variety full of flavor and incredibly prolific. The deep red color and perfect texture of sauces made with Cherokee Purple makes it a no-brainer.
But from there on it’s all negotiable. Maybe I’ll plant Red Currant tomatoes up a trellis to give visual focus to the back of the garden. I never have any luck growing plum varieties, but Scott Daigre, my man with the answers at Hortus, convinces me to try Ivory Egg, a white variety. I love the flavor and beauty of the large yellow tomatoes streaked with red but want to try something new; German Stripe is my choice. I have to try a few Lebanese Red; the name alone conjures up luscious salads.
A couple of years ago I was lucky enough to be asked to be one of the judges for Hortus’ follow-up to the weekend of Tomatomania. One day in late August, backyard gardeners are asked to go to the nursery toting their pride of the summer--the fruits are all grown from the plants bought during Tomatomania.
In one day, I tasted more then 40 varieties. One of the standouts was a misshapen, heavily lobed small tomato called Zapotec. A Mexican variety grown for stuffing because of its hollow core, it is deep in flavor, richer and more complex than many varieties for which a simple sugariness is the main attraction. So the next year, I ran to grab as many Zapotecs as my garden could hold. The plants were gorgeous, huge, vigorous . . . but there was not one tomato. Not one tomato all summer from them. I nearly wept.
But one of the main characteristics of home gardeners is our ability to forget, to put disappointments behind us and try again. This year my plants are even more vigorous than last and they are loaded with fruit!
My tomatoes aren’t quite ripe yet, but gardeners have another quality, patience. While I’m waiting, my thoughts turn back to the kitchen. I start to recall all the delicious dishes I made last year, and the recipe note-making begins.
I remember the wonderful oven-roasted beauties laden with herbs that I used to garnish plates of goat cheese, and the addition of a scarlet ring of tomato sauce to a simple plate of spaghetti dressed with oil and garlic. The Tuscan tomato and bread soup, pappa al pomodoro, has to come back onto the menu, and what about a simple side dish made of sun-gold cherry tomatoes tossed in a pan of warm olive oil with a few fresh herbs?
Before I know it, I’ll be happy to be elbow-deep in tomatoes again and excited to taste every dish. My confession? It’s summer. It’s time for tomatoes.
Orecchiette With Raw Tomato-Shallot Sauce (Orecchiette con Pomodori con le Scalogne)
Active Work Time: 10 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 20 minutes plus 1 hour standing * Vegetarian
This dish is a welcome change from the more familiar checca sauce, but it has the same ease of preparation and big-bang taste.
8 ripe plum tomatoes or 4 large round tomatoes, chopped
2 shallots, minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup capers, rinsed and drained
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup loosely packed Italian parsley, coarsely chopped
10 basil leaves, chopped
Coarse salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1 pound orecchiette
* Combine tomatoes, shallots, garlic, capers, balsamic vinegar, oil, parsley, basil and salt and pepper to taste in large, shallow pasta serving bowl. Cover and set aside in cool spot to marinate 1 to 3 hours.
* When ready to serve, bring generous amount of lightly salted water to boil in large saucepan. Add orecchiette, stirring a few times at beginning of cooking process to stop pasta from sticking to itself or pan. Cook according to package directions until al dente, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain thoroughly and add to serving bowl with sauce mixture. Toss together well and serve hot or at room temperature.
4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 serving: 713 calories; 248 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 29 grams fat; 98 grams carbohydrates; 16 grams protein; 1.49 grams fiber.
Red Risotto With Pesto (Risotto con Pomodoro e Pesto)
Active Work Time: 25 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
The rich color and concentrated sweet flavor of ripe summer tomatoes makes this risotto perfect for a simple late supper on a warm summer evening.
PESTO
1 cup basil leaves, firmly packed
2 garlic cloves
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons pine nuts (optional)
* Place basil and garlic in bowl of food processor or in blender. Process until basil is minced very fine. With food processor running, add oil very slowly. Stop machine when all oil is absorbed. Add Parmesan and salt and pepper to taste. Process just until cheese is absorbed. Add pine nuts and process so that they are coarsely chopped. Using a rubber spatula, remove pesto from processor. If not using right away, place in an airtight container in refrigerator. Bring pesto back to room temperature before using it.
RISOTTO
6 to 7 cups water or chicken broth, or a mixture of both
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 onion, minced
2 cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
1/4 cup light Chianti (optional)
2 cups Tomato Basil Sauce
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons butter or extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 to 3/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
Mozzarella cheese (optional)
* Heat broth over medium heat until very hot. Reduce heat to low and keep broth hot.
* Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook until it is tender. Add rice to onions and oil, and, stirring constantly, saute until grains of rice are opaque and make a clicking sound against metal of saucepan, 1 minute. Add wine to rice, if desired, and cook slowly, stirring constantly, until it is completely absorbed. Add tomato sauce to rice, stir well and begin to cook rice slowly over low heat. Add hot broth to tomato-tinted rice mixture 1 ladle at a time, stirring frequently. The rice should cook very slowly over low heat. Wait until all liquid is absorbed before adding next ladle of broth.
* When risotto is just tender to the bite, 40 to 45 minutes, remove pan from heat. Add butter and Parmesan cheese and stir vigorously until butter and cheese are absorbed and texture thickens and becomes creamy. Serve in separate bowls. If desired, drizzle pesto sauce into rice. (Or add a bit of chopped fresh mozzarella to each bowl of rice and allow your guests to stir cheese into rice.) Serve immediately with additional grated Parmesan cheese at the table.
6 servings. Each serving: 671 calories; 380 mg sodium; 10 mg cholesterol; 45 grams fat; 58 grams carbohydrates; 10 grams protein; 0.49 gram fiber.
Tomato Basil Sauce
Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour
This is the standard fresh tomato sauce we use at Angeli. Using a food mill to puree the sauce saves you the time of peeling and seeding the tomatoes and results in a deeper-tasting sauce. During the height of summer, we reduce every conceivable variety of tomato to sauce using this recipe. Cherokee Purples or other “black” tomatoes make a particularly vivid red sauce that can be used for fish or chicken as well as pasta or in risotto.
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced
Red pepper flakes
12 Roma tomatoes or 6 large red-ripe tomatoes, cored and quartered
5 to 6 large basil leaves
Salt
* Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and pepper flakes. When garlic gives off its aroma and becomes opaque, add tomatoes. Cook over medium-high heat until tomatoes begin to give off their juice and thicken. Use a wooden spoon or potato masher to stir and help break up tomato pulp. Add basil, either whole or roughly chopped, and salt to taste. Cook until sauce thickens just enough to coat pasta, 10 to 15 minutes.
* When sauce is done, remove it from heat and puree it through a food mill using medium disk. This will remove skins and seeds and create a rough puree without adding air.
2 cups. Each 1/4 cup: 65 calories; 39 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 7 grams fat; 1 gram carbohydrates; 0 protein; 0.15 gram fiber.
Tomato and Red Pepper Tian
Active Work Time: 20 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 15 minutes plus 2 hours cooling * Vegetarian
A million years ago--well, at least 20--before John Thorne began publishing his newsletter “Simple Cooking,” he used to produce single-subject pamphlets. Inside those humble pages are gems that I turn to time and again. One of my favorite recipes is this simple French tian. Serve this with plenty of good bread to sop up the juices.
3 red bell peppers
Good fruity olive oil
6 large ripe tomatoes, sliced into 1/4-thick rounds
1/2 cup loosely packed Italian parsley leaves
1/2 cup chopped basil leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon capers, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup fresh bread crumbs
* Roast peppers on baking sheet at 400 degrees or over gas flame, turning with tongs, as necessary, until skin is charred and blistered on all sides, 10 to 15 minutes. Immediately place peppers in plastic bag and close tightly. Let charred peppers steam until cool, about 15 minutes. Using your fingers, slip off charred skins, then pull out and discard stem and seeds. Cut each pepper in half and trim away any tough white ribs. Cut into strips.
* Oil interior of an 11x8-inch enamel, glass or earthenware dish and cover bottom with one-third of tomato slices.
* Mince together parsley and basil and toss minced herbs and thyme together. Sprinkle one-fourth of herb mixture over tomatoes, plus salt and pepper to taste. Put layer of roasted pepper slices over seasoned tomatoes and again season these with minced herbs and salt and pepper. Continue layering until there are 3 layers of tomatoes separated by 2 layers of roasted pepper strips, with herbs, salt and pepper sprinkled on all but last layer of tomatoes. On this, sprinkle chopped capers and bread crumbs. Dribble 2 tablespoons oil over top. Bake at 400 degrees until top is crusty and tomatoes give off juices, 20 minutes. Cool at least 2 hours before serving.
6 servings. Each serving: 76 calories; 116 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 5 grams fat; 8 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.46 gram fiber.
David’s Heirloom Tomato Salad
Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 10 minutes * Easy
This salad was inspired by one made by my friend chef David Wynns, when he was running the kitchen at Les Deux. I knew a good thing when I tasted it and quickly brought my version to Angeli. Use a mix of available heirloom tomatoes so that you have different colors, shapes and tastes on the plate. The genius (David’s, not mine) of this salad is the contrast of textures of the yielding tomatoes, crisp cucumbers and soft cheese. The bread crumbs add additional flavor and welcome crunch.
4 heirloom tomatoes
1 cucumber, peeled and cut into thick half moons
2 tablespoons goat cheese
10 basil leaves, torn
2 tablespoons Garlicky Bread Crumbs
Coarse salt
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
* Cut each tomato in a different way, such as thin wedges or large dice. Arrange on 4 serving plates. Top tomatoes with a little cucumber. Break up cheese and place a few pieces atop each salad. Garnish with basil and a few bread crumbs. Let each diner add salt and a drizzle of olive oil to taste.
4 servings. Each serving: 64 calories; 116 mg sodium; 1 mg cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 11 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams protein; 1.26 grams fiber.
Garlicky Bread Crumbs
Active Work Time: 5 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 25 minutes * Easy
3 slices European-style country bread
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
* Tear bread into pieces and place in food processor. Process until bread crumbs are very coarse. Transfer crumbs to small bowl and add garlic, olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Stir to mix. Spread bread crumbs on baking sheet and bake at 350 degrees until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Be careful not to let them burn.
2 cups. Each 2-tablespoon serving: 34 calories; 57 mg sodium; 0 cholesterol; 2 grams fat; 4 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram protein; 0.02 gram fiber.
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Hortus is at 284 E. Orange Grove Blvd., Pasadena. (626) 792-8255. Tomatomania is over, but the nursery says it still has 25 to 30 tomato varieties in stock.
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Kleiman is owner of Angeli Caffe, 7274 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, and host of “Good Food” on KCRW-FM (89.9).
