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Mole

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Mole sauces, a particular specialty of Oaxaca, are made from a wide range of nuts, spices and other ingredients--often, especially in the mole poblano of Puebla, with a bit of chocolate. Usually mole comes on chicken, either as an entree or in enchiladas.

* Babita: Chef Roberto Berrelleza grills tortillas, avocado leaves and three chiles, then adds chocolate, bananas and quite a few other ingredients. He serves chicken mole poblano with rice, beans and a vegetable of the day. (Mole poblano, $9.95; enchiladas in mole, $8.95.) Babita, 1823 S. San Gabriel Blvd., San Gabriel, (626) 288-7265.

* La Serenata de Garibaldi: There are some 34 ingredients in this thick, dark mole. It’s served with chicken, but if you prefer pork or giant shrimp, just ask. It comes with fresh corn tortillas, rice and beans. (Pollo deshuesado en mole, $14.95.) La Serenata de Garibaldi, 1842 E. 1st St., Los Angeles, (323) 265-2887; and 1416 4th St., Santa Monica, (310) 441-9667.

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* Alegria: To make her tasty mole poblano, Nadine Trujillo roasts, sautes and purees seeds, nuts and dried fruits, cooks it two hours and then leaves it overnight to “blossom.” Besides mole poblano, she has Friday and Saturday mole specials, including a coffee mole and a mole pipian. (Mole pollo en poblano, $11.95; mole enchiladas, $9.95.) Alegria, 3510 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 913-1422.

* Casa Olamendi’s: Gina Olamendi’s family mole poblano recipe goes back to the nuns of Santa Clara; it leaves a light tingling sensation in your mouth. Olamendi makes two versions, mild and picante. The mole comes on chicken breast with salad, pinto beans, rice and corn tortillas. (Mole poblano, $10.95.) Casa Olamendi’s, 1160 S. Pacific Coast Highway, Laguna Beach, (949) 497-4148.

* Guelaguetza: This little restaurant serves two delicious Oaxacan moles, coloradito and negro (the latter flavored with chocolate). They come with either chicken or pork and a large helping of rice. (Mole negro, $7; coloradito, $7.) Guelaguetza, 3337 1/2 W. 8th St., Los Angeles, (213) 427-0601.

* Mexico City: You can choose two moles at this hip place, mole verde (toasted pumpkin seeds, cilantro, green peppers and lettuce) and mole poblano, reddish black from roasted peppers. Both dishes are served with chicken, tasty Mexican rice and pinto beans. (Mole poblano, $10.75; mole verde, $10.75.) Mexico City, 2121 Hillhurst Ave., Los Feliz, (323) 661-7227.

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