1997 Von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon “Diamond Mountain,” Napa Valley

Here’s a high-end Napa Valley Cabernet, made in fairly small quantities (only about 1,500 cases), that hasn’t gone completely crazy with its prices. Tightly knit, lovely from the first sip, it isn’t shy about showing its quality. With its taste of plums, cassis and blackberries, its soft tannins and seductive, dusty nose, it’s delicious drinking now and should get even better with time.

Since 1990, with the debut of its Cabernet Sauvignon, the Von Strasser family has gained a good reputation among winemakers. Keep an eye out for the Merlot and Cabernet from its second label, Freestone, too.

About $45. Available at fine wine stores.