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1997 Tardieu-Laurent Cornas ‘Co^teaux,’ Rho^ne Valley

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Cornas. The name conjures up images of wild game, steep, sun-beaten hillsides and twisted old Syrah vines. And wines of uncompromising, almost ferocious character. This, however, is a kinder, gentler Cornas. Made by the dynamic young negociant team Tardieu-Laurent, it is much softer and more approachable than is traditional, yet it hasn’t lost any of its character.

About $28. Available at fine wine stores. If you can’t find this wine, ask your retailer to contact the distributor, Adventures in Wine, (415) 467-0130.

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