Paella Where It Grows
Just south of Valencia, on the Mediterranean coast of Spain, lies the Albufera, a freshwater lake separated from the sea by a spit of land. More than a thousand years ago, the Moors introduced the cultivation of rice in the marshy wetlands surrounding the lake, and rice is still grown here. This is the home of paella, Spain’s famous rice dish.
Smack in the middle of shimmering paddies, not far from the city, is the Restaurant La Matandeta. Manuel Baixauli, 67, is the paella cook at La Matandeta. On a Sunday afternoon he may cook as many as 30 paellas-170 servings.
Baixauli did not always cook paella for paying customers. He used to be a farmer. In fact, the restaurant is housed in what once was the cow barn. The rice fields start right at the edge of the restaurant’s terrace.
He fans a fire beneath a blackened grate. When it is blazing, he sets a wide steel paella pan on the grate, adds some olive oil and a sprinkling of salt. Then he puts in pieces of duck, chicken and rabbit and lets them brown very slowly.
“The secret to good paella is the sofrito,” he says. Sofrito is the mixture of ingredients that are fried to develop flavor. “Real slow,” he says. “There’s no rush.”
He adds a little chopped garlic and grated tomato pulp and continues frying. Next come wide flat green beans and big fat lima beans, called garrafon. Only when the meat is nicely browned and almost cooked does he add liquid-part water and part stock. And a sprig of fresh rosemary, a dozen big snails, already cooked, and a golden mixture of real saffron and yellow coloring.
Baixauli adds some fast-burning twigs to the fire to stoke it very hot and bring the liquid to a boil. Then he pours the rice into the pan in the form of a cross. Once the ingredients are distributed evenly in the pan, the paella is never stirred again. It bubbles gently as Manuel lets the fire die back.
Finally the paella is served, golden yellow and fragrant. We scoop up portions of tender rice with some of the socorrat, the crusty, toasted layer from the bottom of the pan. The rice is delicious, moist and redolent of the rich flavors of the meats, snails and saffron.
This is how paella is made where it comes from, in the rice-growing region of Albufera.
If you learned to love paella as made anywhere else in the world, you might be surprised to find that authentic Valencia paella contains no seafood. That’s right-no shrimp, no lobster, no mussels or clams, no squid. Nor will you find sausage or brazen strips of red pimento.
Paella on its home ground contains beans and snails, rabbit or chicken, possibly duck. (The rice, of course, colored by saffron, is a sunny yellow color.) But even within the confines of authenticity, there is room for variation. Although authentic Valencia paella is the one with chicken, rabbit, snails and beans, other rice dishes are cooked in the paella pan. As one Valenciano put it, “There is only one true paella, but there are many paellas.”
One popular variation, which turns up in other regions of Spain, is made with chicken plus shellfish and is usually flamboyantly garnished with shrimp and strips of red pimento. Another rice dish cooked in the paella pan is arroz a banda, rice with fish “on the side,” a fishermen’s dish typical of the Alicante, south of Valencia. The rice cooks with a flavorful fish broth and is served plain, with boiled fish and garlic sauce as a separate dish.
“There’s no official recipe for paella,” declares Santos Ruiz Alvarez, a young agricultural engineer who heads the regulating council for the Rice of Valencia denomination board-Denominacion de Origen Arroz de Valencia. “Here they use green beans and lima beans, but 15 miles north, my mother puts fava beans and artichokes in her paella.”
What is essential to authentic paella is short-grain Valencia rice. This type of rice is not supposed to cook “every grain separate.” It is not “fluffy” rice. Its great virtue is as a “flavor conductor,” soaking up the savory juices with which it cooks-chicken and rabbit, the herbal essence of snails, fresh vegetables, the heady scent of saffron.
Driving country lanes in the Albufera wetlands, one can see the complex system of irrigation channels, dikes, sluice gates and water wheels introduced by the Moors and still in use here 10 centuries later.
Alvarez says the people of the Albufera traditionally lived by hunting, fishing and growing rice. The original paella was a dish cooked by the rice reapers, who made their midday meal from what was at hand-rice, eels, wild duck, wild rabbit, snails, frogs’ legs-cooked over a wood fire in a shallow, flat-bottomed pan.
Where a family vegetable plot was at hand, beans, artichokes or other vegetables found their way into the rustic paella. Thus evolved the dish known around the world as paella.
Three varieties of rice are grown in Valencia-Bahia, Senia and Bomba. All three are short grain and have the perla, a white “pearl” where the starch is concentrated.
Any of them can be used for paella. Bomba, with its shorter grain, is especially appreciated for caldoso (soupy) rice dishes, because its starch doesn’t expand and get sticky if overcooked.
In Valencia, Alvarez says, paella is a dish for Sunday dinner, when the whole family gets together. It’s always served in the afternoon, never at night.
“On weekends in the country,” says Santos, “the men cook the paella. Even if they would never cook at home, outdoors they’re in charge.”
The festive get-together begins in the late morning. While the kids romp, the adults play cards or catch up on a week’s gossip. About noon the guys start gathering wood for the fire. Prunings from orange and olive trees and grape vines are ideal.
Once the fire is blazing and the big paella pan leveled on a tripod, the cooking begins. First, you make the sofrito, slowly browning the meat and vegetables. Then liquid is added with a sprig of fresh rosemary. How much liquid? Right up to the level of the rivets where the handles are attached.
When the liquid comes to a boil, the rice is poured in. Everything bubbles on a brisk fire for a few minutes. Then, as the flames subside, the rice finishes cooking gently. After a few minutes to “repose” and finish cooking, the paella is served. Everybody gathers round to eat the rice straight out of the pan.
What’s the secret for making great paella?
“Practice every Sunday,” says Alvarez.
If You Don’t Have All Your Paella Fixings
Where to buy paella ingredients and tools:
* Valencia and Calasparra rice, saffron, pimenton and paella pans can be purchased locally at La Espanola Meats, 25020 Dobie Ave., Harbor City. (310) 539-0455. Its Web site is https://www.spaincuisine.com.
* We also found nice paella pans at Sur la Table, with various locations throughout Southern California.
Mail-order sources for Valencia rice, Calasparra rice, saffron, pimenton, snails, Valencia beans and paella pans include:
* The Spanish Table: (206) 682-2827 or https://www.tablespan. com.
* La Tienda: (888) 472-1022 or https://www.tienda.com.
* La Sevillana: (704) 568-5949 or https://www.lasevillana.com.
Paella, Valencia Style
Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour
You can substitute chicken breasts for the duck breast, if you prefer.
1 cup fresh or frozen large lima beans or dried butter beans, soaked overnight
2 cups green beans, cut in 2-inch pieces
2 chicken thighs (10 ounces total)
Salt
4 pieces of rabbit (10 ounces total)
1 (10-ounce) boneless duck breast, cut in 4 pieces
1/4 cup olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tomato, grated (1/2 cup pulp)
4 drops yellow food coloring
1/4 teaspoon saffron, crushed
1/2 teaspoon pimenton
4 1/2 cups chicken broth or water
1 dozen cooked snails, optional
Fresh rosemary sprig
2 cups Spanish short-grain rice
Lemon wedges, for garnish
If using dried butter beans, soaked overnight, cook them in boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold water. Set the beans aside.
Blanch the green beans in boiling water for 1 minute. Drain, refresh in cold water and set aside.
Cut the chicken thighs in half along the bone, making 4 pieces. Lightly salt the chicken, rabbit and duck.
Place a 14-inch paella pan on the fire and heat the oil over medium-high heat. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of salt into the oil, then add the chicken, rabbit and duck and let them brown slowly, about 10 minutes. Next add the limas or parboiled butter beans and the blanched green beans and cook and stir 1 minute. Add the garlic, and when it begins to turn golden, the tomato pulp.
In a small bowl combine 1/4 cup of water, the yellow food coloring, saffron and pimenton. Stir until the spices are dissolved. Dribble this mixture into the pan.
Add 4 cups of broth or water and turn the heat to high. Add the snails and sprig of rosemary. When the liquid is boiling, add the rice, stirring to distribute it evenly. Continue to cook on high heat for 6 minutes. Remove the rosemary.
Reduce the heat to medium. Cook 14 minutes more without stirring. Add additional liquid if necessary. The liquid should be almost absorbed, the rice al dente.
Allow the paella to sit for 5 to 10 minutes before serving, then garnish with lemon wedges.
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4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 652 calories; 721 mg sodium; 119 mg cholesterol; 35 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 40 grams carbohydrates; 42 grams protein; 3.44 grams fiber.
Paella With Chicken and Shellfish
Active Work Time: 45 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 20 minutes
1 dozen mussels
1 pound jumbo shrimp
1/4 cup olive oil
1 1/2 pounds chicken legs and breasts, skinned and boned, cut into small pieces
1/4 pound pork, cut in 1-inch cubes
3/4 pound squid, cleaned and cut in rings
1 green bell pepper, cut in 1-inch squares
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped
1/2 cup frozen peas, thawed (or parboiled fava beans)
2 small artichokes, quartered and parboiled, optional
4 1/2 cups water or broth
2 cups Spanish short-grain rice
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, crushed
1/2 teaspoon pimenton
4 drops yellow food coloring
Freshly ground pepper
1 bay leaf
2 teaspoons salt or to taste
1 (2-ounce) jar red pimentos, drained and cut into strips
1/2 lemon, for garnish
Place the mussels in a large pot with 1/4 cup of water and cover. Steam the mussels over high heat until they open, about 4 to 5 minutes. Discard any empty half-shells. Strain the liquid and reserve it.
Cook 4 to 6 unpeeled shrimp in boiling water 1 minute. Reserve them and add the cooking liquid to the mussel liquid. Shell the remaining shrimp and set them aside. (If preparing a broth in which to cook the rice, the shrimp shells can be cooked with the stock.)
Heat the oil in a 12-inch paella pan. Cook the pieces of chicken and pork on medium heat until they are lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the pieces of squid and continue cooking.
Add the bell pepper and garlic and cook 2 minutes more. Add the tomato and increase the heat so it quickly loses its liquid. Stir in the peeled shrimp, peas or fava beans and artichokes, if using.
Add enough water or broth to the reserved liquid to equal 4 cups. Add the liquid to the pan and bring it to a boil over high heat. Add the rice.
Combine the saffron, pimenton and food coloring with 1/4 cup of water. Dribble this into the pan. Add pepper to taste, the bay leaf and salt (if the broth was salted, less will be needed). Stir to distribute all the ingredients. Cook on high heat for 5 minutes.
Reduce the heat and cook 10 minutes more. Do not stir the paella. Arrange the mussels and cooked shrimp on top of the rice. Garnish with strips of pimento. Add additional liquid if necessary.
Cook until the rice is tender and all the liquid is absorbed, 5 to 6 minutes more.
Let the paella rest 5 to 10 minutes before serving. Place a half-lemon in the center or lemon wedges around the edges. Many people like to add a squeeze of lemon to their serving of paella.
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4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 673 calories; 1,136 mg sodium; 384 mg cholesterol; 29 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 36 grams carbohydrates; 63 grams protein; 1.76 grams fiber.
Variation: For a 16-inch paella pan, serving 6 to 8: Increase the quantity of rice to 3 cups; increase liquid to 6 1/2 cups. Prepare the sofrito on top of the stove. Add the liquid to the paella pan and bring to a boil. Add the rice and bring again to a boil. Place the pan in a 375-degree oven and cook 20 minutes.
Rice in Paella With Fish on the Side (Arroz a Banda)
Active Work Time: 55 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 1 hour 55 minutes
FISH BROTH
1 pound small fish, fish heads, bones and trimmings, plus any shrimp shells
12 cups water
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 onion with skin
1 strip lemon zest
1 strip orange zest
1 stalk celery, cut into large pieces
1 small carrot, split lengthwise
Several stems parsley
Dash thyme
Place the fish and parts, water, salt, onion, lemon and orange strips, celery, carrot, parsley and thyme in a large pot. Bring to a boil and skim. Partially cover and simmer for 1 hour. Strain the broth through a fine mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth; discard the solids. You should have 8 cups of broth. If you have less than 8, add water to equal 8 cups.
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ALL-I-OLI SAUCE
1 (2-inch-thick) slice French bread
1/2 cup milk
2 to 3 cloves garlic
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons lemon juice
Soak the bread in the milk until bread is softened. Puree the garlic i Place it in a blender, then add the bread and milk and with the garlic and blend until smooth. With the motor running, blend in the oil, salt, lemon juice and 2 to 3 tablespoons of water to make a sauce the consistency of thick mayonnaise. (The sauce can be prepared in advance and refrigerated; serve it at room temperature.)
Makes 1 1/4 cups.
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FISH AND RICE
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup diced tomato
1/4 cup medium shrimp, peeled
2 cups Spanish short grain rice
8 cups hot Fish Broth, divided
1/4 teaspoon crushed saffron
1 1/2 teaspoon pimenton (Spanish paprika)
1 tablespoon white wine
1 teaspoon salt
2 pounds fish filets and fish steaks, such as monkfish, grouper, snapper or sea bass, cut into 4-inch pieces, any bones removed
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Heat the oil in a 12-inch paella pan over medium heat. Add the garlic, then the tomato and shrimp. Stir in the rice and cook 2 minutes.
Add 4 cups of Fish Broth. Turn up the heat and bring the liquid to a boil. Mix the saffron and pimenton in the wine. Add to the pan with the salt. Cook the rice on a high heat for 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook the rice until it is done, another 15 minutes. Stir often to make sure it doesn’t stick.
While the rice cooks, bring the remaining 4 cups of Fish Broth to a boil in another pot. Add the fish filets and fish steaks. Simmer until they are just done, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove the fish and keep it warm on a platter while the rice finishes cooking.
Serve the rice, fish and All-I-Oli Sauce.
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4 to 6 servings. Each of 6 servings: 614 calories; 791 mg sodium; 111 mg cholesterol; 29 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 37 grams carbohydrates; 48 grams protein; 1.11 grams fiber.