Rustle Up Some Mussels

When I yearn for Paris in the spring, I make a bowlful of mussels. Almost every little bistro there has a version of this simple dish.

Mussels are good value and quick to prepare. And these days they’re easy to clean, because they’re mostly farm-raised and lack the grit and beards of ocean mussels.

In this recipe, the mussel cooking liquid is the base for the sauce. The mussels are reheated in the sauce just before serving, so nearly all the work can be done ahead. Serve them with griddled bread and a light red wine.

The quintessential bistro dessert is Mocha Pots de Creme topped with softly whipped cream, followed by a cup of espresso and chocolate truffles.

Springtime Mussels With Garlic, Parsley and Diced Tomatoes

Active Work Time: 35 minutes * Total Preparation Time: 50 minutes

This recipe also makes a great first course for a dinner party, serving 8 to 10. The mussels look best when piled in shallow soup or pasta bowls; be sure to place an empty bowl for shells near each guest’s place. Small fish forks are useful if you have them.

* MUSSELS

7 pounds fresh mussels

Salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

6 tablespoons minced shallots

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1/3 cup whipping cream

6 ripe, firm tomatoes, outer shell only, finely diced

2 cups coarsely minced parsley, divided

Freshly ground pepper

Griddled Bread, for serving

*

Place the mussels in a large, wide pot. Rinse once. Cover them with cold water; shake in 2 teaspoons of salt. Soak 30 minutes, then wash the mussels several times and drain.

Place the drained mussels over high heat. Cook, covered, until the shells open, shaking the pot occasionally to distribute the heat, about 6 to 7 minutes. Discard any unopened mussels. Line a sieve with a double layer of paper towels; pour off the mussel liquid through the sieve. Reserve any liquid; add enough water to equal 3 cups.

Melt the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic; cook until they’re softened and fragrant, stirring often, about 4 minutes. Add the reserved liquid and cream. Bring to boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for about 3 minutes. (This can be made a few hours ahead at this point; refrigerate the mussels in a pot and keep the sauce at room temperature in the skillet.)

To serve, bring the sauce to a boil, add the tomatoes, all but 2 tablespoons of the parsley, and pepper to taste. Cook 2 minutes. Pour over the mussels in the pot. Cook over high heat, covered, shaking the pot often, until the mussels are very hot, about 2 to 3 minutes. Ladle them into warm bowls, dividing the mussels and liquid evenly and sprinkle with the remaining parsley. Serve immediately with Griddled Bread for dunking.

* GRIDDLED BREAD

9 rolls, split horizontally

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Coarse salt

Brush the cut side of the rolls with butter. Sprinkle them lightly with salt. About 5 minutes before serving, heat a ribbed griddle or griddle pan. Put the rolls, cut side down, on the hot pan. Cook them until they show grill marks, about 3 minutes. Brush any remaining butter on the tops. Sprinkle them with salt. Use tongs to turn the rolls. Cook the rolls until they’re lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Serve them hot.

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6 main-course servings. Each serving: 686 calories; 982 mg sodium; 130 mg cholesterol; 35 grams fat; 17 grams saturated fat; 57 grams carbohydrates; 36 grams protein; 3.90 grams fiber.

Mocha Pots de Creme

Active Work and Total Preparation Time: 30 minutes plus 3 hours chilling

True pots de creme are baked rather than being cooked on the stovetop, but this recipe is quite good anyway. Look for instant espresso powder at Italian markets and gourmet markets.

*

1 1/2 cups whipping cream

1/2 cup whole milk

1 1/2 teaspoons instant espresso powder

6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

2 1/4 tablespoons light brown sugar

Dash salt

6 egg yolks

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 cup chilled whipping cream and 1 teaspoon sugar, softly whipped, for garnish

Place the cream, milk, espresso powder, chocolate, brown sugar and salt in the top of a double boiler. Cook over simmering water, stirring often, until the mixture is scalding and the chocolate has melted, about 5 minutes. Stir until smooth.

Whisk the egg yolks lightly in a small bowl, then gradually whisk in half of the chocolate mixture. Pour into the double boiler with the remaining chocolate mixture. Cook, stirring, until the mixture has thickened and mounds when spooned, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the vanilla, then pour into 4 pots de creme cups, demitasse cups or small custard cups, dividing evenly. Cool, uncovered, then chill until cold, covered, about 3 hours or overnight.

To serve, top with small dollops of whipped cream. Serve immediately.

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4 servings. Each serving: 561 calories; 130 mg sodium; 421 mg cholesterol; 44 grams fat; 24 grams saturated fat; 39 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams protein; 2.50 grams fiber.

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Dishes from Pier 1 stores.

Mandel is a cookbook author.