Wine of the Week

Delamain & Co., founded in 1824, makes just five handcrafted Cognacs, ranging from the basic “Pale & Dry” (an X.O.) to the unblended single-cask “Reserve de la Famille” and rare old vintage Cognacs aged in the firm’s centuries-old cellars near the Charentes River. They’re all distilled from grapes grown in Grand Champagne, Cognac’s highest cru .

This one is well described by the French equivalent of “Pale & Dry,” delicat et leger ; it’s a delicate golden spirit of subtle charms. A blend of Cognacs with an average age of 25 years, it is lighter and more finely spun than mere brandy, with a haunting after-note of vanilla and toast. As a present, it would please just about anyone who loves Cognac. Treat yourself to a bottle, too, while you’re at it. I can’t think of a better reading companion.

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About $60. Available at fine wine and liquor stores.