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“A ’98 Fontodi Chianti Classico ‘Riserva.’ I love Chianti, and when there are really good years, the good years are extraordinary. This has very bright fruit and nice flavors that are excellent with Italian food ... and is not as heavy and big as a Cabernet or Zinfandel. A lot of people buy cheaper Chiantis, and those can be OK, but they can be shrill and harsh.”

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